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  #21  
Old 01-11-2005, 10:01 PM
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I used a variety of chemicals to remove the worst glue spots - mainly Goof Off, Acetone, and Laquer Thinner. Mainly I just wanted to even the surface out so there weren't any lumps when I installed the new carpet more than remove all of the glue. I did mine in July with the garage open and a full respirator on. If the surface was even enough, I hit with a little sandpaper and glued the carpet right to it. Like Kurt said - with contact cement on both sides,, the carpet will stick to the old glue.

I wouldn't use a wire wheel, personally. Get a little to happy, remove the galvanization, and if you ever get leaks (like from the rear glass), its a rust-fest.
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  #22  
Old 01-12-2005, 04:39 PM
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Has anyone ever tried dry ice on glue? It works pretty good on undercoating removal when building a race car. I would think that it might be worth a try. Non-toxic and doesn't create any brain-to-booger fumes that I know of. May not be a good idea if you have undercoating on the bottom of the chassis. Rich
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2005, 05:09 PM
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Default carpet install

I am right in the middle of the same project but I put down a layer of sound proofing in the back and am using the thicker regular German Velore carpet (not the RS).

Buy LOTS of glue. I am about half way done and through three cans of the 3M spray on stuff. You need to coat both sides to be bonded, let it dry for a few minutes then lay the carpet.

Make sure you find any holes where bolts or screws need to go before the glue dries (like the rear seat belt bolts). If you are putting the rear seat backs back on, don't forget to cut out holes for the hing pins on the sides.

Those are the tricks to the trade I have learned thus far.

Good luck

Chris McFaul
73 911 E

Ps this is what you feel like after breathing in the glue fumes for a few minutes
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2005, 05:15 PM
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Anyone use good ole Home Depot exterior carpet glue that comes in the tub. It's cheap, but not spray on. It holds good, but gives several minutes of working time. So far I've used it on only the SC kick panels. Rest is going to have to wait untill I finish the roll bar.
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2005, 05:27 PM
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Contact cement! Not in the spray can but in inexpensive $20 a gallon paint cans from Home Depot. Brush or roll on let it set for ten min or so and stick the carpet down. Done. One gal is plenty to do a 911 with some left over. The problem with the spray can contact cement is it gets all over stuff that you don't intend to glue and it applies too thinly.
The Flammable contact cement (Red can) is close to the OEM stuff. I have used the nonflammable (Green can) with success but the flammable is better. Use cheap brushes and roller kits and chuck em' when done. Tape the can lid with foil tape and any leftovers will keep.
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2005, 03:21 PM
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Default Carpets finished

Finished the project. Came out better then I had expected Just need to clean up a bit and put the rear seat belt bolts back in.

I tried to include pics in this post but must be experiencing user error

Chris
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2005, 03:49 PM
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Is the contact cement any good for the engine compartment sound deadening too? I have to replace mine, the old stuff fell off.
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  #28  
Old 01-19-2005, 05:11 PM
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Why would you want to deaden the sound of a flat six?
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