[BobNovas]

Dave - you can save yourself the hassle of air compressors and exploding soccer balls - just play ice hockey instead of soccer.

[Trak Ratt]

Great, you knock my compressor off the bench and then you get the new one. My 5.5 hp is 110 but can be easily rewired to 220 for that extra compress. Suspect the 6 hp can too.

Like so many say, always buy the newest Porsche you can afford and the biggest compressor I’ve only needed more push when breaking 40 year young 356 rear axel nuts Bob, I didn’t know you “lived on the edge(s)” and pucked around 8)

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait

SIX HP? That is BIG mother and more than a 120 volt 20 amp line can handle if it is truly 6 HP.

It's not. This is the classic Sears "Max Developed HP" trick, also used by most mfrs to rate their universal motors (Sears is the only place that I know of that rate induction motors this way, too ). He'd need at least a 30A, 220V line to run a 6A motor! Besides, it would be overkill - damn thing's only compressing air. But, we're Americans, and HP sells, right?

Sandblasting - there's something you're going to need a big 60gal, two stage compressor for.

[Vicegrip]

Tank size helps recycle time but does not lend to more cap or tool power overall. At the tool CFM @ 90 PSI is the best and first measure of a air system. a 1 gal pancake will drive a impact gun and produce the same power as a 200 gal pro unit just for less time before recycling. Restrictions in the feed lines will reduce the developed power. I was helping someone with a balky setup and we found that the tank and regulator pressure would read 90PSI even when he hit the impact gun but the pressure at the gun was far less. I made a inline guage that read the pressure at the gun. At rest 90PSI during use 35PSI. the reg was a P.O.S. New reg and problems went away.

120V to 220V convertable units. I run 220V but only due to fact that the amp draw is 1/2 of a 120V setup. Same power used and same power from the motor but less wire size needed and less inrush load lug during starting. (they don't dim the lights as bad while starting)

Jazzbase is spot on, if you have a lot of non production amounts of sanding or buffing to do, get electric tools. Sand blasting and conventional painting are the real air pigs. I don't know of an electric version of a sandblaster but unless you plan to do a lot of it a smaller compressor and some electric tools will cover automotive needs. For paint don't use a compressor. The new electric stand alone HVLP setups rock. NO water in the air problems and they make all the air needed without any pressure cycling. Plug in and paint all day long and the whole setup can be caried around.

[OldTee]

Ummmm.... I have one of those compressors. I had no idea it was not ideal for my purposes. I don't plan to paint, I can't hear much anyway so the noise does not bother me and 120v is fine. Besides, Pari has my old compressor with a hole in the tank and you don't hear him complaining, do you?

[BobNovas]

Here's a pretty good link on Air Compressors. (my kind of link, Dave... see if you can spot a bug in the math! :P )

http://truetex.com/aircompressors.htm

[Trak Ratt]

I read somewhere that the longer the air intake tract the less noise and have actually proved this. The real issue now is to extend the air intake tract without restricting it. May be a K&N. Also, the “muffler” on my 5.5hp is one peace so I had to modify it

[Vicegrip]

Large diam (3"+) foam pipe insulation works great as an intake pipe. Pipe to outside in winter and your compressor will work better. Cold dry dense air. If you put the entire compressor outside add a case heater to keep the oil from getting too thick. a 3 foot strip of pipe heat tape works well and it comes with a built in thermostat.

[Jase007]

This is a good thread. I am in the market for a compressor as well and am looking to run it on 120. 2 stage would be nice but ... may not happen. David, I saw the sears one on sale and it is what got me thinking. Unfortunately, everyone I talked to about it said to spend twice that on a campbell-hausfeld, porter cable or similar high-end product.

I'd love to get one to power a sand-blaster but ... may have to sacrifice that option. Mine will also be stored in a shed (no heat) for the near future.

Jase

[BlackTalon]

Thanks for all the info. Jase, for as little as I will use a compressor, I don't think I can justify spending much over $300. Plus, since I don't have a garage (just a carport), the compressor will not be fully protected from the elements. Yes, I have a nearby shed I can store it in, but I am admittedly lazy and would probably leave it in the carport most of the time...

I would primarily use the compressor for tire inflation, lug nuts, and occassionally, suspension bolts. I'm no Dave Riley , but we do have four cars in our stable, and I really need to do more to maintain them myself -- including tire rotation, brake servicing, and replacing suspension/ drivetrain components (on my Talon only).