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  #11  
Old 07-09-2004, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug E
After looking at that picture of Charlie and Chris maybe the post should be titled something, ah, shall we say 180 degrees opposite of what low is
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzbass
Dude - who packed the spring plate? Fire it up!
ROFL
Thanks for the compliments guys. Charlie, thanks again for all your help, as always I learned some new stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase
I have a set of 23mm and 31mm TBs 4 sale if you want to rattle your teeth.
Jase, you just have to tempt me, don't you .

Chris, give me a ring when you are going to put everything back together. I want to see the Beige beast back on the road, so I have someone in the area to go driving with again .
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2004, 12:18 PM
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Pari looks great!

A little tip on removing older rubber bushings…make a lot of deep razor cuts parallel to the torsion bar axis & then around the bottom. Remove rubber w/chisel, air is better. On fronts use a drill a little smaller than the rubber area to carefully drill a lot of holes around the circumference of the bush. Then clamp in vise & twist. Remove remainder for both ends w/fire. EPA & your spouse w/appreciate the reduced gases!
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2004, 02:00 PM
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Looks great Pari.....only wish I could have been there to help out. Can't wait to see it in person.
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2004, 07:05 PM
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That's it. I'm doing mine.

Lee78SC
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  #15  
Old 08-17-2004, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007
I have a set of 23mm and 31mm TBs 4 sale if you want to rattle your teeth.

Jason
Somebody should jump on this offer. This is the best setup for the 911, from longhood to Carrera 3.2. Even better when you have your Bilsteins revalved to suit [Bilstein rebuilds and revalves for $75 each - great deal]. Phase 2 is street poly bushings everywhere, Phase 3 is some decent swaybars - adjustable in the rear, almost any through-body bar will work in the front.

This setup is very streetable. I expected it to be harsh, but it was fine for street use. Certainly stiffer than stock, but but not bone jarring and not harsh. Most of the harshness comes with direct-to-body coupling, icluding monoballs in place of compliant bushings and the like.

Somebody buy these TBs. You'll like what they do on the track.
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  #16  
Old 08-17-2004, 09:10 PM
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Agreed, it would make a great setup but no one said how much
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I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk!

Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson

"That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n

Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go.

CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done...

Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2004, 11:14 PM
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I'm guessing Jase might trade 'em for an unbroken night's sleep at your place
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  #18  
Old 08-18-2004, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
That's it. I'm doing mine
Lee, let me know if you need a hand . Someone please buy those T-bars so I don't have to be tempted to spend any more money on my suspension .
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  #19  
Old 08-18-2004, 07:28 AM
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2004, 11:04 AM
oneblueyedog oneblueyedog is offline
 
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Thanks Pari,

I'm in Dallas though.

Did you guys use a box knife to get most of the rubber off the spring plate?

I saw Chuck Moreland's tech article. I was going to do it that way. But if you have some tricks, I'll use em.

On the angle calc... Did you get your car weighed before lowering it?

How did your corner balancing come out.

Your results look dramatically cooler.

I should get my Poly Bronze Elephant bushings today or tomorrow.

Do you have any suggestions on shock abs. grommets. I have KYB rears and I suspect they are going bad since I get a suspension knock from time to time under dfferent load conditions.

There's a thread on Pelican that I'm watching. I have the same problem as the originator of the thrread except all of my suspension componets are from '78.

Thanks for any info, great article.

Lee
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