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  #11  
Old 07-13-2004, 02:09 PM
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You will have to get it out. Black carbon stains are ok but all oil will need to be soaked out. Depending on the coating concrete needs to be cured 28 days or so before being coated.

Too true, it is far better and easer to apply to new cured surface that to a previously painted or dirty surface. Old paint is the worst surface to re coat. The new stuff will be only as good as the old stuff. 5K pressure washer is a good start for old paint.
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2004, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait
You will have to get it out. Black carbon stains are ok but all oil will need to be soaked out. Depending on the coating concrete needs to be cured 28 days or so before being coated.
How is oil "soaked out"??
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:12 PM
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Mine is painted gray with some pseudo-epoxy stuff Behr makes and sells at Home Depot. Not a *real* epoxy as some have pointed out, as there was no catalyst. The paint has held up OK, and I have abused the hell out of it over the 5 years I've had the house. My only issue is that it has peeled away in small patches right where the cars sit - my guess is from hot tires.

I did the whole ritual before painting - let it cure, muratic acid, etc. Its not an indestructable coating, but has faired OK considering the abuse. If I had to do it over again I would go with a more expensive, true epoxy.

Keep in mind any of these coatings will make the floor extremely slick when wet. Some people put sand in the mixture to help prevent falls, but I find this a pain when laying on the floor trying to slide under the car.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:06 PM
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Say more about the sand. A slick floor can ruin a whole week. What about using sand just where you walk. How hard to do is that?

Does a painted floor clean up easier than just old dingy gray concrete?

Does Lowes have a product? I hate to go into HD.

What, no votes for white or other colors than gray? Pink is out!
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTee
Say more about the sand. A slick floor can ruin a whole week. What about using sand just where you walk. How hard to do is that?

Does a painted floor clean up easier than just old dingy gray concrete?

Does Lowes have a product? I hate to go into HD.

What, no votes for white or other colors than gray? Pink is out!
The sand is not hard, just dump it in the mixture. Probably take a little experimenting to get the right amount. Start out with too little and add more as needed. Maybe do a little experimenting on some plywood before coating the floor.

I like gray because it doesn't show all the dirt that will be tracked around. Forget the random oil spill (that will always show), but white will show every bit of dirty tracked in from the yard, street, etc. One plus for white, on the other hand, is that it would make the garage brighter.
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:09 PM
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I used the Griots Garage covering. Recommended by an engineer offspring of mine. Applied over a new though well cured floor. Spent 2 days in prep & it went down beautifully! Just grey, looked great, not real slippery when wet.
Then I dropped my first 911 strut, big gouge several chips. Then an engine slipped off a dolly, bigger gouge, several deep scratches, etc., etc. Long story, less long, if I had to do it again I would just put a sealer on a “shop floor” & save the color/speckles/non skid for a garage.
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2004, 10:56 PM
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Soak out oil with solvent and rags, flood and sop up. Or pour dry cement on the spot and let sit for a day or two. (Dry and inside only please , hardend piles of cement makes for a lumpy shop floor ) Or pressure wash then soak out. Always finish up with a full evap solvent on the spots prior to coating.

I always use made for the job non slip grit rather than sand. It is normally sold at the same places that sells the paint. Sand is all different sizes and can stain/streak the coating. As to application, another way to add non slip grit is to put it in a shaker can and sprinkle it on as you apply the coating. Roll on some coating, sprinkle the grit and roll over the coating to seal the grit in. This method gives good control of the placement, amount of grit and how sharp the finish will be. I use two rollers for the real picky work, one to roll out clean no grit coating and one to seal it in. That way no grit where you do not want it. You can also just sprinkle the grit on and not seal in but it will be real sharp and you will always have some coming loose.

Lowe's sells the Rustolum stuff as well. It comes in gray and tan. I think coated floors are easer to clean. The dust, sludge and crud can't soak in.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2004, 06:22 PM
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An inexpensive glossy black will hide the oil leaks nicely.
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by targa911man
An inexpensive glossy black will hide the oil leaks nicely.

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  #20  
Old 07-22-2004, 04:20 PM
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I will be using the "Ucoat-it" system in a few weeks. I need to to some prep work first.

From what I heard NOTHING beats this system.

www.ucoatit.com

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