[Lucky]

Replacing rear wheel bearings on the Boxster is a straightforward process, but it is a fairly large job for the home mechanic. Here's an overview of the process as performed on a 2000 Boxster S.

First you need to decide if you will do the bearings while the hub carriers are still on the car or of you will instead remove the hub carrier and perform the bearing replacement on your workbench. A wheel bearing tool, such as the SIR kit, is needed if you will perform the work with the hub carriers on the car. By the way, a HUGE Thank You to Track Ratt for loaning me the SIR kit -- it is an awesome tool!

I am in the process of replacing the clutch and since I would have the axels and tranny out for that job, I decided to do the bearings with the hub carriers still on the car. You cannot remove the axels without also removing the underbody supports and the secondary cats, so unless you have those parts off for another project it will be less work to remove the hub carriers and do the bearing work off the car.


Step 1 - remove the stub axel nut -- requires a 32mm socket and big breaker bar.




Step 2 - after jacking up the car and removing the axel, you can begin disassembly of the brakes. Take of the caliper with the 2 10mm Allen bolts and remove the 10mm bolt holding the brake line to the back of the hub carrier. Hang the caliper to prevent damage to the brake line.




Step 3 - remove the brake rotor.




Step 4 - remove the parking brake shoes.




Step 5 - Now use the SIR kit to pull the hub out of the bearing -- note the outer race will come out with the hub.







Step 6 - Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the bearing retainer to the hub carrier.




Step 7 - Use the SIR kit again (with the proper size "puck") to pull the bearing out of the hub carrier.




Step 8 - Using just the threaded rod and properly sized pucks from the SIR kit, push the new bearing into the carrier. One puck goes on the inner side of the hub carrier while the other sits flush on the outer race of the new bearing. Install the new bearing with markings facing out.







Step 9 - reinstall the bearing retainer and parking brake shoes.




Next up is removal of the outer race from the hub and then use of the SIR tool to push the hub into the new bearing.

I was able to remove the race from the hub by heating the race with a propane torch and using a hammer and drift to get about 1/4" of clearance. Once I had enough clearance I used a three arm puller and a slide hammer to yank the race the rest of the way off the hub.

Next installment (hopefully next weekend) will cover reinstallation of the hubs into the new bearings.

[Trak Ratt]

Very cool!! DeV wants-U..... to write an article!

[Dr K]

Wonderful write-up and photos!

[Lupin..the..3rd]

Bravo, very nice HOWTO you've created there. I wonder if 996 is exactly the same? I would guess so.

[Richard Curtis]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

Very cool!! DeV wants-U..... to write an article!

As TR says, der Vorganger would very much appreciate a DIY article, especially with the very clear and well-lighted photos you took. Contact me at dveditor@pcapotomac.org

--richard

[86911TLCAB]

John, excellent write up...i am going to try and replace my rear trailing arms...youve inspired me to take pictures along the way and post the results...lets see if i am as a good a journalist...

[Vicegrip]

nice work up. If you don't have a 3 arm puller and torch you can slit the hub bound race with a small cut off wheel in a Dremmel type tool. Cut 90% of the way through then stick a sharp chisel or a flat blade screwdriver in the slot and wack with a hammer. The chisel will split the race the rest of the way and jam in the slot. this holds the race open and it slides right off.

[Lucky]

Thanks, folks, for the positive feedback. Part of my reason for sharing my experiences working on the Boxster is to show that it is very DIY friendly for most jobs -- just like other Porsche models. Some jobs, such as a clutch R&R, are very easy -- far easier than most cars on the road today. I'll post an overview and pics for that process in a few weeks.

~~~~~

Here's the last bit on the wheel bearing R&R.

~~~~~

The last few steps are quick and easy.

Step 1 -- select the proper "pucks" for reinstalling the hubs. The outer puck should be large enough to rest on the 3 wheel centering prongs that stick out from the face of the hub. The inner puck will sit on the inner race of the wheel bearing -- this way the bearing is squeezed together while the hub is pushed into it.




Step 2 -- once you have the proper set up, use the SIR kit to push the hub into the bearing.




Step 3 -- check your work. The hub should turn smoothly with no binding or play. If you feel movement when you push the hub in or pull it out, then the inside race didn't get pushed fully onto the hub.




If everything checks out, you are now ready to reinstall the rotor and caliper. Put some blue loctite on the two small phillips screws that hold the rotor in place. Also make sure you put a liberal amount of anti-sieze on the caliper bolts to avoid a future issue due to corrosion. Some suggest using new caliper bolts, you make the call.

[Dr K]

Nicely done and great photos. Thanks.

[nightmarcher]

When reinstalling the wheel hub with the SIR tool, from the photo, it looks like the emergency brake was removed and sitting in the rotor. However, in the previous step, you mention installing the emergency brake. Did you have to remove the emergency brake so you could install the hub? Does it matter which gets installed first? Thanks.