[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by ruffyz

... so from what I hear even 200 lbs springs in the front is going to be a bit unbalanced without upping the rear.

If you aren't going racing right away AND your rear bushes aren't toast why not go with raer coil overs too? Easy to add considering what replacing the t-bars take.

[ruffyz]

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

If you aren't going racing right away AND your rear bushes aren't toast why not go with raer coil overs too? Easy to add considering what replacing the t-bars take.

So you're saying go for stiff coils front and back even if I'm not racing? I'm hoping to get a ride-along on a 944 with an upgraded suspension so I can make my own call as to what is "too stiff".

I haven't studied the t-bar schematic yet, so I don't even know how to being assessing the current state of the rear suspension. I suspect that many a rubber bushing or moving part needs some TLC.

[tank]

Originally Posted by ruffyz

.. so from what I hear even 200 lbs springs in the front is going to be a bit unbalanced without upping the rear.

I just installed Koni yellows with 250lb springs up front and just the shocks in the rear. No changes to the torsion bar. Hope I haven't ruined it. There was a write-up that I read some months ago that explained what effect changing certain aspects of the suspension will have to overall handling..

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-15.htm

[hobiecat]

I've got 400lb springs with coilovers in the front. That's balanced against 30mm torsion bars in the rear.
Yes - it's pretty stiff, but you can still drive it on the street. I drove it to Mid-Ohio one year.......

As has been said before, torsion bars are a PITA. It took me 4 tries to get it right. By tries, that means
I had to drop the rear suspension unit and re-index the bars 4 times to get the ride height I wanted. Then
I used the eccentric bolt to make the final adjustments during corner balancing.

If you want that part to be easier, coilovers in the rear make setting the ride height 1000 times easier
and the stock bars weigh less. However, the extra weight of the 30mm bars is close to the bottom of the
car so the overall effect of the weight gain is minimized. Also - I'm kind of hard headed, so the more I heard people
complain about how hard it was to do T-bars, part of me just wanted to see if I could do it.

Don't forget sway bars. Make sure that you "match" them up too. I have a 30 mm up front (from a Turbo S)
and an 18mm adjustable in the rear. In hard cornering, these really help quite a bit.

New bushings really help as well. There are many choices out there that are far better than stock. Check out Elephant Racing....

In the end, my car can corner significantly better than it did when in "stock" condition, but at the same
time, it's nicely balanced and neutral - which is what I was going for. Street comfort was not a real factor,
but then it was never intended to be a daily driver.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by ruffyz

So you're saying go for stiff coils front and back even if I'm not racing?

No, I'm saying matching the stiffer front springs is easier (less work, less $$) with rear coil overs than t-bars. If you have ever replaced or paid someone to replace the t-bars on '44 you'd instantly know what I mean. Don't think coil covers are legal in most popular racing groups so there is that too. Still until you are ready to go racing they might be a cost effective way to feel your way through the suspension upgrade jungle.

[ruffyz]

I just read through http://www.elephantracing.com/projec...ngplatediy.htm the spring plate bushing removal looks annoying, but doable. Still, makes me wonder if redoing the torsion bars is really worth the effort. Pulling it out and going to coils might be the way to go, but pricey.

Anyone want to give me a ride-along in their '44, so I can get a feel for different spring rates?

[ausgeflippt951]

Originally Posted by smdubovsky

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

^ I'm ashamed to admit it but it took me a minute or two for this to sink in...

Originally Posted by John Clay

I just "got it"

Har har har.

Originally Posted by ruffyz

I just read through http://www.elephantracing.com/projec...ngplatediy.htm the spring plate bushing removal looks annoying, but doable. Still, makes me wonder if redoing the torque tube is really worth the effort. Pulling it out and going to coils might be the way to go, but pricey.

Anyone want to give me a ride-along in their '44, so I can get a feel for different spring rates?

What's your timeline looking like on this? Did you see my response to your PM -- the car will be on jackstands for the next few weeks but after that will be good to go...

Also, did you mean "redoing the t-bars"? Not sure where the TT came into the conversation.

[ruffyz]

Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951

What's your timeline looking like on this? Did you see my response to your PM -- the car will be on jackstands for the next few weeks but after that will be good to go...

Also, did you mean "redoing the t-bars"? Not sure where the TT came into the conversation.

I'm in no hurry really. Yeah, torsion bar is what I meant. The TT is a whole different ballgame of annoying.

[RedOctober]

Originally Posted by ruffyz

Anyone want to give me a ride-along in their '44, so I can get a feel for different spring rates?

I am not exactly close to you, but I would be happy to give you a ride in my '86 with 425# springs in the front, and 30mm T-bars. Sways are not stock, but are not the biggest either (can't remember the sizes now).

If I can change the T-bars, ANYONE can (although I did have some help from good samaritans on this board).

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by RedOctober

If I can change the T-bars, ANYONE can (although I did have some help from good samaritans on this board).

I SOLD that car so I wouldn't have to do this job, and still got the opportunity to participate.