[Spike]

Oil pressure seems OK. When cold it is up above 4/near 5/near the top.
When hot at 800rpm idle it is just below 1 bar. Seems typical
for 123k miles?

I notice no oil leaks from the valve covers. bottom of engine
is dry. It's all from the pipe. It smokes mostly at stop signs
after I bring it down from 4k range (until warmed up).

One new note: I cored my catalytic convertor week before last.
I am wondering if maybe because of that the engine is cooler
and so now it is taking longer for the valve guide clearances
to close up?

So, if I'm looking at a top end, the way I calculate things, that
means do it all while I can. Who has good advice on the best
reasonable 3.2 updates for more torque and reliability while
still allowing redline ABOVE 6k rpm? I want to stay single plug...

Can I go to 100mm jugs and still stay single plug?
Should I just bump compression and stay with the 98's or whatever?
cams?

I did a search and didn't see a lot I could easily draw from.
Pelican has a lot of info, but I'm hesitant to take opinions from
people I do not know - who may never have actually done
whatever they're recommending.

[Jase007]

So, if I'm looking at a top end, the way I calculate things, that
means do it all while I can. Who has good advice on the best
reasonable 3.2 updates for more torque and reliability while
still allowing redline ABOVE 6k rpm? I want to stay single plug...

Can I go to 100mm jugs and still stay single plug?
Should I just bump compression and stay with the 98's or whatever?
cams?

God bless you Emory ... you just opened up pandora's box with these Q's. I predict another 4 pages at LEAST for this thread How about starting another thread labeled "Emorys engine buildup ..." in technical.

Jason

[cmartin]

Install a 3.6. Rougly the same $$, lot's more fun!

[Trak Ratt]

3.4 and 3.5 conversion is well documented on Pelican and Andersons book. Dual plugs are generally associated with compression ratios over 10 to 1.

[Spike]

OK, OK, wait, wait, ....I don't want anyone to get carried away.

I can deal with what I have for the season without problem.

I can do some research over the summer and if it really looks
like valves, etc. then I guess I can plan to do rebuild, etc.
when it gets cold again. I'm sure it could use a clutch, too
after 123k or whatever is on it.

I am seeking advice though, as there seems to be so many
ways to approach a 911 engine modification opportunity.
That is waht makes it so hard to determine what the
best angle is ~ assuming I am not concerned with ending up
with a stock rebuilt 3.2 ~ which I would not be.

[Spike]

Well...the 911 is at Matt's. It's pretty smoky and Matt's pretty concerned.

We did a leak down (between 3 and 6) and it seems OK for the mileage.
But we can hear air rushing out of somewhere we cannot yet locate.

We hooked up the smoke machine and smoke is coming out of
some weird places - like out of the #1 spark plug hole in the cover,
while the plug is inserted. Also out of some space between #1 and #2,
seemingly through the alloy. Now, we all know this is impossible.

We hooked up the computer and started it. Between billows of blue
smoke, we see a few cylinders go goofy on Kv's and then after
a few minutes start to normalize as the smoke reduces.

The engine is really lean - like 0.532 - even with the sensors
all bypassed. We did verify the computer seems to be working.

So, it is still a mystery, but something or some things are going on.

Seems to be a multiple choice answer so far:
1. mixture is lean - need to fix
2. something is leaking oil and burning - would be nice to know what
it is to be able to determine what the scope of the repair is...

Hmmmm....