[cmartin]

Dont listen to me, I dont know anything. Hoosier says

For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees negative can result in excessive wear on the outer shoulder junction. Higher pressures are needed when the vehicle has limited negative camber. The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run.

If you arent competing for the pointy end of the grid at nationals good old Ra1's still work pretty well, and in your size

[Goggles Paesano]

Article in this month's edition of "Grassroots Motorsports" has these ratings. Hope you can see it.

[Molly2001]

I did not have that article - I can see it and will get it. I believe that Steve mentioned that article to me at the Porschefest DE.
Thank you

[jerome951]

I'll share my $0.02....

I've run the NT01 in the past (same rubber and carcass as the RA1, just different tread design) and I liked them as well as many sets of RA1. I've also run RA1 and RR back-to-back on my SPB and there's about a second or so difference.

With the RA1 or NT01 you should be able to run the tires to the cord and they stay fast (no loss of grip due to heat cycling). I've not run RA1s to the cord on my current Boxster, with with my former heavier and more powerful car, I could get ~40 heat cycles. You should be able to get similar life but will need to carefully manage edge wear on the fronts (due to your low camber setting) and flip as needed.

I would certainly recommend the NT01/RA1 over the RR and to me strike a decent speed/cost tradeoff if you want a shot at the white group podium...

No experience w/ the 200TW tires but I hear some are reasonably grippy and perform pretty well.

[Molly2001]

Originally Posted by jerome951

I'll share my $0.02....

I've run the NT01 in the past (same rubber and carcass as the RA1, just different tread design) and I liked them as well as many sets of RA1. I've also run RA1 and RR back-to-back on my SPB and there's about a second or so difference.

With the RA1 or NT01 you should be able to run the tires to the cord and they stay fast (no loss of grip due to heat cycling). I've not run RA1s to the cord on my current Boxster, with with my former heavier and more powerful car, I could get ~40 heat cycles. You should be able to get similar life but will need to carefully manage edge wear on the fronts (due to your low camber setting) and flip as needed.

I would certainly recommend the NT01/RA1 over the RR and to me strike a decent speed/cost tradeoff if you want a shot at the white group podium...

No experience w/ the 200TW tires but I hear some are reasonably grippy and perform pretty well.

Ha ha - white podium..

Thanks Jerome! Useful info for my search, to be sure. What should the minimum camber be in your opinion -3?

I asked my shop to give me -3 in the spring and they said since I DO drive the car on the road they wouldn't go past 2.5. I reluctantly agreed.

I have pretty new Michelin pilot sport all season 4 on there now and there is no visible wear on the inside of those. That includes trips to VIR, Watkins Glen and Pitt Race.

I actually drove them Saturday & Sunday at Porschefest because my cup 2s were shot on Friday (front left was shot - the rest were getting there). They have 540 treadwear.

I'm thinking that I'll go back to the shop for that extra half degree - I believe the street tires can handle it.

Anyway I appreciate all the comments, opinions, thoughts!

Niel V

[Hunter]

Molly-

I 100% disagree about the statement regarding the Toyo RR tires. I run a 964 quite hard in Red and I replace them about once per year and a half, NOT every 10 heat cycles. Marshal's information could not be more inaccurate.

[Lara]

No one has mentioned how difficult it is to get tires right now. NT01s haven't been available in 2022. I love them, but I can't get them. We have had to run Hoosiers and have Hankooks to try for the last DE. The Yokahama AO52s are fantastic, but they are very hard to get now, too.

[mlytle]

Originally Posted by Hunter

Molly-

I 100% disagree about the statement regarding the Toyo RR tires. I run a 964 quite hard in Red and I replace them about once per year and a half, NOT every 10 heat cycles. Marshal's information could not be more inaccurate.

It is accurate. The rubber may last, but the grip goes away fast. I have tried them several times on race car. Same results each time. After about 10 cycles the grip measurably starts going away. I had lots of data to back that up.

And this is not taking into account how bad a tire they are to drive on. Vague steering, lowest grip in its class, squeal like pigs.

They are a race tire. Competition is hoosier Goodyear and Hankook z214. I have raced on all of these tires.The RR is a backmarker.

Friend don't let friends drive on RR's.

[Molly2001]

Thanks for the last three comments!

I can get RRs from my local shop for 275 right now so after all the info I've decided to go that route. If they aren't what I want I will go with something else next time. I really want to try slicks since I have the trailer to get them to the track.

This will be entirely new to me, heat cycles, + a heat cycle before the first event, square setup, camber - plenty for me to digest and learn more about 'real track tires'.

Cheers!
Niel V

[Hunter]

Marshall- I agree that the RR is not as quick as the Hoosier, maybe a second or two per lap depending upon the track, but I was speaking to the longevity mostly. I feel they are a step between the RA1 or Nt01 and Hohos in lap time. Everyone's experience will differ a little based on car, driver, set up etc. but I find them to last a long time. They are a great value compared to the Hohos and have a DOT stamp too if they are needed to drive to and from the track.