[racer]

Not wanting to hide anything, I had the 911 out yesterday in the mild January weather (near 60 down here). I was curious so I pulled off the passenger side rocker panel. Did some light poking around to check soundness. Opened the passenger where I had seen some discolored metal along the base of the B pillar. Gently scraped with a flathead screwdriver.. uh-oh.. ended up with a "quarter" sized hole. Plus, the uneasy feeling that there is more. The jackport still feels solid, but it looks like this is a boxed area. I can only assume more moisture and rust has collected in there. My broad assumption is that I will need to replace the "lock post" or base of the b-pillar soon. I have no idea baout cost, given I don't know the true size of the problem. . The bottom of the passenger door looks ok. I did notice some bubling hear and at the base of the rear fender along the B-pillar...

On the plus side, as I was looking at other questionable areas. What I thought might have been rust on the inside top of the engine compartment is actually remnants of the glue used to hold the sound deadening/proofing material. Also checked out the battery box area. Broke out a wire brush and scrapped but there was nothing there.

Besides "Karossarie" who I used about 15 years ago but fear they will charge a lot of $$, what are some other reputable shops in the area (I would prefer in Northern VA)?

Thanks in advance!

[markwemple]

Time for a mig, spot weld bit and some beer!!

[Rick V]

While your in there...........................Wide body. Just a thought

[Trak Ratt]

Noah and Eli might have some first hand information about this type of repair.

[}{arlequin]

i'll need that work. sooner or later. so i might as well "subscribe" to this thread now...

[racer]

Originally Posted by david riley

Noah and Eli might have some first hand information about this type of repair.

I know Noah posted some pics, I just haven't had a chance to find which thread that was in.

Anyone know if there are any "drain holes" in this area of the car? Also, does anyone know where the drain rails for the sunroof lead too. I'd hate to overlook those spots.

[Noah]

Dave,
I just did this repair, but my car was much worse than yours. If the hole is the size of a quarter, you don't need to replace the entire latch post. Just cut out the offending area and weld in a patch. This is a notorious rust spot on 911's -- the back side of this spot is a nice tight little wedge-shaped area where the latch post, inner and outer fender, and rocker panel all meet. The rear tires throw crud forward and it gets packed into the wedge, and ten years later you've got rust.

The first thing to do is jack the car up, remove the rear wheels, and start poking around this wedge area. It's accessible all the way at the front of the rear wheel wells (you'll need a flashlight).

Your car is probably completely solid otherwise -- mine is.

[Rick V]

the rear sunroof drains run through the roof line and come out under the engine cover. The 2 holes you see at the top near the hinges.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by Rick V

the rear sunroof drains run through the roof line and come out under the engine cover. The 2 holes you see at the top near the hinges.

There’s also a small piece of rubber hose the joins the rear corner of the sunroof to the tube that runs down to the rear of the car. Can’t see it with the headliner in place. But if you pour water down the roof track and it comes out about even these should be OK. Be careful if you run a wire down from the top. 20+year old rubber, even German, can get delicate.

[Vicegrip]

You can use a bicycle brake cable to clear the sunroof tubes if they clog. It will not punch through the tubing if you are carefull. Dip the end in epoxie to keep it from fraying. Gentle (very gentle) compresed air can also be used to flush them out after you have run the cable through.

You might find about 10 pounds of road crud behind the rear fenders that the rear wheel stuffs into a poorly designed area.