[germanspeed]

So far I have only snapped one stud although I have been told to expect more. I welcome any suggestions....Anyone have a Stomski Racing head stud tool i can Borrow?

[Charlie Stylianos]

I've had very good luck on both snapped and threaded studs using a Snap-On stud extractor (appropriate thread diameter/pitch) with an inexpensive OXY / MAP gas set. Propane will not work here. Get the stud and case around the hole good and hot and it will come out easily.

[germanspeed]

Well problem is I snapped it off flush...i don't think that method will work right?

[Charlie Stylianos]

Originally Posted by germanspeed

Well problem is I snapped it off flush...i don't think that method will work right?

Correct. Machine shop time, unfortunately.

[alw20147]

Originally Posted by germanspeed

Well problem is I snapped it off flush...i don't think that method will work right?

I had the same thing happen to me on my brother-in-law's Dodge Charger.

I tig welded a grounded down bolt onto the broken stud. The heat from the tig loosen the sheered off exhaust stud enough that it came out.

[N0tt0N]

I have the Stomski kit for the water-cooled M96/M97 but am pretty sure that is useless on the air-cooled engines as I think they have a different flange layout.

[18T_BT]

Anyway you can weld on a bolt to it, to see if you can try and turn it to get the snapped stud out? I did that once and it worked for me, time consuming and access to a welder is necessary of course. GL - this is always a major pain...

[Dr K]

When I did this, I snapped off 1 and a former Dorki said "well, you need to take it in anyway so just try to get the rest off" - then snapped off 3 more! Note: on the next engine I worked on, I used a ton of heat, and Kroil, and repeated 3 evenings in a row. All 12 nuts came off without snapping any studs (of course, different engine, different history). Now I use copper nuts (well, I did when I had a Porsche )

With the multiple-snapped-off-stud engine, 2 were flush or close to that, and 2 had threads showing. I loaded it into the back of another Dorki's pickup truck and took it to Matt de Maria, who pulled the 2 showing (with lots of heat) using the tool above, and drilled, cleared the threads, and replaced the other two. He did this freehand (there's a tool that holds the drill perfectly centered and straight) with perfect results.

[Trak Ratt]

When I did that I took the piece to Matt at Stuttgart Performance and he worked through it.

Welding on another bolt is another way, though making the bit clean enough maybe a challenge.