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  #11  
Old 07-28-2014, 08:26 AM
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^^x100 on what TR and VG said

Every time I get into our 993 race car, I slam my helmet against role bar for not buying a 996 instead. 99 is the way to go for track due to its simplicity.
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2014, 08:50 AM
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Seems to me that the ones that have engine issues are the low mileage garage queens. I know of several M96 powered cars that have over 100K miles on original engines that have been tracked for years without issues. It really is hit or miss. One of my friends down here has a 99 Boxster with over 200K on the odometer. He picked up the car from a customer of his who used it as a daily driver. Car has never had the IMS done and still has the original clutch. Engine is bone dry and he's had Blackstone do oil analysis on on two oil samples. No red flags in either.
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2014, 09:54 AM
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I thought the issue was that when not driven frequently enough, the moisture in the oil corrodes the bearing/seal and lets the oil in to wash away the grease. Then the bearing fails and out comes the oil.

So the "workaround" was to drive the car frequently and change the oil regularly. And put in a better IMS bearing/seal.


And 996S with stock suspension, plus roll bar, racing seats, harnesses (need at least 5-points), and race brakes will make for a phenomenally capable car. Many on this board daily drove their track cars, particularly when first getting into DEs. I DD'd mine for years and I haven't changed it much from that configuration since starting to trailer it a couple years ago.
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2014, 10:04 AM
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FWIW, I drove my 996 on track for a number of years. It doubled as a street car not a daily driver but more occasional car. I put in a four point roll bar (goodby backseat), seats, harnesses and PSS9s for adjustability for track and street. It was a great way to appreciate the scope of a great car. I did not run Shenandoah which is where most 996 drovers had oil starvation issues. The oil baffle will probably help here. I did do the IMS change for good measure. Get a spare set of wheels for DOT legal (track) tires to drive to/from track or beg a ride for your wheels to away events just so you have spares.

Happy to answer any questions I can from my experience.
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2014, 01:33 PM
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I have a daily driver (my workhorse Subaru wagon - good for hauling dogs and people and hardware and groceries etc). When I say that we want the track car to be street legal it is more so that we can get it here and there without a trailer or if I want to drive up to the village to grab a starbucks with it I can.

Given the initial outlay expense it would be an ongoing project car evolving into something special over the next 2 years....
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  #16  
Old 07-28-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelittlemrs View Post
I have a daily driver (my workhorse Subaru wagon - good for hauling dogs and people and hardware and groceries etc and autoxing while between p-cars). When I say that we want the track car to be street legal it is more so that we can get it here and there without a trailer or if I want to drive up to the village to grab a starbucks with it I can.

Given the initial outlay expense it would be an ongoing project car evolving into something special over the next 2 years....
FTFY
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  #17  
Old 07-28-2014, 01:55 PM
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I'm hearing the opportunity to buy N. Fotouhi's 993 as a track car so he can get a 996...

I went through a similar set of decisions last year on tracking my 2009 997. The decision to go with a dedicated track car lets you make some safety upgrades so 964's, 993's, 996's, 997's (and boxsters and caymans and miatas and ...) are all good choices, it just depends. I decided to go with a 993 for the track for a number of reasons (all of which could be debated).

One thing to consider is to trying to get a car that will pass inspection (so you can at least drive it to the shop and to get gas without pulling out the trailer). In some cases, going with a car from the early 90's (so it is 20 years old) qualifies you for antique or vintage plates and is easier to get past inspection. With that in mind, you may want to look at 964's and 993's (and miatas ).
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  #18  
Old 07-28-2014, 02:16 PM
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^ x2 on the strategy of getting a 964 or 993 for the ability to have it pass inspection. I'd rule out the 993s because of the higher prices. Althought I hear 964s have appreciated a lot also recently.
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2014, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vranko View Post
^ x2 on the strategy of getting a 964 or 993 for the ability to have it pass inspection. I'd rule out the 993s because of the higher prices. Althought I hear 964s have appreciated a lot also recently.
Early 996's are the affordable 911's now. They are a lot of car for the money too.
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2014, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelittlemrs View Post
Given the initial outlay expense it would be an ongoing project car evolving into something special over the next 2 years....
If you're willing to search and be patient I recommend buying a prepped car. Look for a 996 that has a rollbar, seats, and suspension work etc already done. Let somebody else take the hit. While aforementioned doesn't sound like much it will cost an additional half your initial outlay for a 996 to add these things after the fact.

The other consideration here is that you can get a newer Cayman near about what you would pay for a 996. The concept of buy as new as you can afford has merit. Food for thought.
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Last edited by blipshift; 07-28-2014 at 04:41 PM.
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