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Dr K · #**581** 04-22-2010, 04:45 PM

Cool. When I get ready to put the bumper back on I'll make the decision (I already have a light probably much brighter than these). But this is really a neat idea I'd forgotten about. Anybody know anything about temperature-resistant wiring for these - there won't be a heat shield back there and I worry about melting the insulation.

Fritz · #**582** 04-22-2010, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr K

Cool. When I get ready to put the bumper back on I'll make the decision (I already have a light probably much brighter than these). But this is really a neat idea I'd forgotten about. Anybody know anything about temperature-resistant wiring for these - there won't be a heat shield back there and I worry about melting the insulation.

When they melt, install a new pair. They are $8 on ebay. I've got a set ready to go.

I don't think there will actually be that much heat at that part of the bumper. That whole "air cooled" theory applies itself well to things that are not directly next to the engine. That fiberglass bumper is hollow so these things will be a foot away from any exhaust and engine components. How did your original lighting wire survive for the last 25 years?

Dr K · #**583** 04-22-2010, 04:55 PM

I thought I'd give an update on a couple of items:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fritz

Not mine to loan. My buddy bought it for his shop last year when my studs kept breaking. It wasn't cheap, so it's more likely to be available for rent if anything. I'll ping him later this week to see. It'll probably end up costing you $50, a 12 pack of Heineken, and a bunch of your carbide drill bits. Hardened steel is a bitch! I think it enables you to be able to clean/retap the threads instead of needing helicoils.

Matt De Maria, despite his hundreds of specialized tools, did not have this tool--and didn't need it either. He carefully marked the center of each stud, and drilled (with his Snap-on air drill) right down the center, then larger holes until just smaller than the original screw. He then retapped the hole to M8 x 1.25 (I think that's it - he retapped to the original size) and it all went together well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr K

Sourced a replacement throttle linkage lever but got the wrong part. Trying to get DC Auto to find the right part - photo attached if someone has one laying around (I'd replace with the one I'll get from DC Auto) - photo below--as you can see, the little ball has broken off the lever. Might just need to weld the ball back on, but I have ZERO welding skills

Photo of throttle linkage part:

Attachment 22843

Here it is in PET (#4):

Attachment 22844

DC Auto send me a part (I actually think I ordered the 930 part rather than the 911 part) but since there's no part number stamped on it, it's hard to tell. Anyway, it was pretty different, with the ball about 2 cm. away from where it should be with the part installed. Kurt came to my rescue and welded the old part back together (he is sooooo good). Perhaps not totally surprisingly, DC Auto was really stand-up about this, discussed it with me both by email and phone, and gladly is taking the part back. The parts they sent me arrived in a timely manner and all look good. I just wanted to give a compliment after a positive experience.

John · #**584** 04-22-2010, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trak Ratt

I just ordered 14 cans direct. Here's a link to order 2 cans with free shipping
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Thanks for the tip on the two cans of Kroil, TR. Mine came today.

LPM911 · #**585** 04-22-2010, 05:48 PM

"and you want to be my latex salesman"

Dr K · #**586** 04-22-2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John

Thanks for the tip on the two cans of Kroil, TR. Mine came today.

Mine, too.

Fritz · #**587** 04-23-2010, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr K

I thought I'd give an update on a couple of items:

Matt De Maria, despite his hundreds of specialized tools, did not have this tool--and didn't need it either. He carefully marked the center of each stud, and drilled (with his Snap-on air drill) right down the center, then larger holes until just smaller than the original screw. He then retapped the hole to M8 x 1.25 (I think that's it - he retapped to the original size) and it all went together well.

Yeah. If you have the engine out and can flip it over you don't need the special tool to drill and tap the studs. However, if you're hanging under an engine and don't want hardened steel filings in your eyes, it sure does help.

Glad to hear it went well.

Dr K · #**588** 04-24-2010, 07:07 AM

Update:

Headlights installed - they work! Thanks to Jim (Type954) for the surrounds. I will probably upgrade the sealed beam bulbs to H4 inserts, but that's not my top priority right now.
Scoured garage - no engine/transmission mounting bolts or washer--BUT, Dorkis come through again. Jazz has the engine bolts and washers, and Bill M has the transmission bolts.
Found exhaust gaskets from Vicegrip and will get today (they'll need a bit of modification) to complete the exhaust mounting (2-in, 1-out to the SS header/heat exchanger I installed this week)
Mounted coil (that took about 1 minute, but it takes up a line here )
Rebuilt the driver's side rear caliper. It was extremely clean inside, with no hang-ups. The passenger-side brake line did not want to come out, and I didn't want to break it off at this point, so the brake rebuild, at least for the rear, is declared "done."
New rotors on and calipers reinstalled.

Following Vicegrip's advice, I'm trying to keep my To-Do list granular and up-to-date. I'm getting close, and may just re-install the Koni shocks in the rear, leaving the suspension update until later (it will depend on how long everything else takes, if I can get the car out for a shake-down, and if it looks like it might possibly get to Mid-Ohio but without suspension update). So here's the To-Do list for the next 10 days:

<link rel="File-List" href="file://localhost/Users/pnkaufman/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0/clip_filelist.xml"> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w

ontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w

ontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> <style>  </style>

Install muffler<o></o>
Install engine/tranny into car<o></o>
- Move engine from stand to engine jack<o></o>
- Reattach TDC sensor<o></o>
- Replace spacer under throttle linkage plate<o></o>
- Mate transmission<o></o>
- Install in car<o></o>
- Hope it starts…<o></o>
Install seat and harnesses<o></o>
Wire DME harness wires to tach<o></o>
Replace front inserts<o></o>
Replace front torsion bars <o></o>
Replace rear torsion bars <o></o>
Have rear sway bar mounts welded in place<o></o>
Install rear sway bar<o></o>
Install clamps on AN-12 oil lines<o></o>
Install front bumper screen<o></o>
- Remove bumper<o></o>
- Screw in screen<o></o>
- Reattach bumper<o></o>
Have car aligned and corner balanced<o></o>
Install rear tow hook<o></o>

<o></o> 
Will be working almost all weekend (need to drive around and pick up parts, eat, sleep...). Feel free to come by if you're around. As always, bring a lawn chair and your sense of humor.

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w

ontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w

ontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> <style>  </style>   <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridHorizontalSpacing> <w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing>18 pt</w

rawingGridVerticalSpacing> <w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayHorizontalDrawingGridEvery> <w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery>0</w

isplayVerticalDrawingGridEvery> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w

ontAutofitConstrainedTables/> <w

ontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> <style>  </style>

forklift · #**589** 04-24-2010, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John

Thanks for the tip on the two cans of Kroil, TR. Mine came today.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LPM911

"and you want to be my latex salesman"

Chakka · #**590** 04-24-2010, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John

Thanks for the tip on the two cans of Kroil, TR. Mine came today.

Noticed on the packing slip you posted......

Vandalay Industries? Owned by Art Vandalay?
Aren't they importer/exporters out of N.Y. and friends of George Costanza?

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