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  #41  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:12 PM
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With a non-interference engine how could damage occur? Too tight, the valves don't open (enough?) but they aren't hitting piston or anything. What part could actually be damaged and how would it occur?
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  #42  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:17 PM
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With a non-interference engine how could damage occur? Too tight, the valves don't open (enough?) but they aren't hitting piston or anything. What part could actually be damaged and how would it occur?
Too tight and they will open too much... which might make it possible to make it an interference engine. How much did you have to adjust the valves when you adjusted them? I never had to adjust more then 2 or 3 valves and not by much.
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  #43  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:29 PM
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Too tight and they will open too much...
Yeah, you're right. I forget it's counterintuitive. Like counter steering a motorcycle.
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  #44  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:05 PM
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Too tight and they will open too much... which might make it possible to make it an interference engine. How much did you have to adjust the valves when you adjusted them? I never had to adjust more then 2 or 3 valves and not by much.
That's my experience as well.

When you were turning the engine over during the adj process, was it ever difficult at any time?
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:07 PM
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He stated previously that it would not turn over at all. Which means valve to piston contact to me.
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  #46  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:27 PM
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No, it was not diificult when turning the engine. I used a 24 mm wrench.
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  #47  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:48 PM
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If you could still stick a feeler in at ANY point in the rotation you didn't do damage. A 3.2 should have plenty of valve/piston clearance. Even if you set them on the wrong spot on the cam base circle you'd only be off a couple thou. Big whoop. To even hope of hitting the pistons, you'd have to screw the adjusters all the way down so they were holding the vales open a couple mm all the time (prob darn near the thread bottoming out in the lock nut.) It'd take a hammer to then insert the feeler gage at that point

IMO, Go back to basics. Check the plug wire order. Other sensor conectors. Maybe check the new plug gaps (you mentioned you changed them?) You've prob bumped or disconnected something.
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  #48  
Old 12-08-2009, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris prack View Post
He stated previously that it would not turn over at all. Which means valve to piston contact to me.
X2

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Originally Posted by signifyingmonkey View Post
No, it was not diificult when turning the engine. I used a 24 mm wrench.
Ops!
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Originally Posted by smdubovsky View Post
IMO, Go back to basics. Check the plug wire order. Other sensor conectors. Maybe check the new plug gaps (you mentioned you changed them?) You've prob bumped or disconnected something.
X2, dodn't skip a step either. Most here have put the wires on the wrong terminal at some point in time.
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  #49  
Old 12-08-2009, 09:05 AM
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No, it was not diificult when turning the engine. I used a 24 mm wrench.
Good. I also recommend you do a leakdown and try turning the engine w/o plugs in. It should move smoothly. As long as there are no hiccups I wouldn't worry about piston-valve contact.

Maybe I missed something, but have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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  #50  
Old 12-08-2009, 11:05 AM
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I still don't see how you can mess up enough to go no start/no fart or cough. Unless you go from the lobe area the worst you get it too tight or too loose. Too tight = 0.0 cold it would start or fart at least. I dono but have a hunch there is more to this.
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