[cmartin]

I'm trying to help a friend who's in need of a top end rebuild on a 3.2 Carrera. On the surface it seems pretty straight forward, remove heads, send off for valve job, install new. New chain rails, gasket set and a few odd's and ends. Lot's of while you're in there, but considering how simple a engine drop is, I dont think it makes sense to go nuts in this case. Obviously if 6 valves are bad they will be replaced, but no titanium bits in this case.

Anyone farm this out recently? I know there are a a lot of variables, I'm trying to figure out a realistic cost if outsourced.

Thanks for any info

[rs911t]

Spent more than a little time crunching these very numbers. YMMV

I have a couple quotes in the $1600 range for the head work as well as the actual cost when I had the 930 engine rebuilt. This includes r&r the heads, new guides, seals and exhaust valves. Intake valves are "if needed" and I think around $500. It also assumes reusing the springs, etc.

"Assembly" stuff like ramps, gaskets, return tubes, etc should be < $300.

Conventional wisdom says if the heads are off, replace the studs, r&r the rods and replace the bolts.

I end up around $4k with all the above, all DIY except the headwork and rods.

[cmartin]

Thanks Greg

[markwemple]

With the rod issues I would go with a full tear down. From what I was told, the bottom end isn't a tough as an SC's. (as in durable not difficult)

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by rs911t

Spent more than a little time crunching these very numbers. YMMV

I have a couple quotes in the $1600 range for the head work as well as the actual cost when I had the 930 engine rebuilt. This includes r&r the heads, new guides, seals and exhaust valves. Intake valves are "if needed" and I think around $500. It also assumes reusing the springs, etc.

"Assembly" stuff like ramps, gaskets, return tubes, etc should be < $300.

Conventional wisdom says if the heads are off, replace the studs, r&r the rods and replace the bolts.

I end up around $4k with all the above, all DIY except the headwork and rods.

Greg,
On a 22-year-old engine (or so), why not replace the springs. Fresh springs, even stock, should protect at least somewhat from overrev. If I had to do it over again, I'd pony up for racing springs and protect even more (since my top end was the result of a "money shift" at SP).

PS: Had fun running with you at M-O. Can't wait until next time, unless you up your engine...

Peter

[KFJ]

Originally Posted by markwemple

With the rod issues I would go with a full tear down. From what I was told, the bottom end isn't a tough as an SC's. (as in durable not difficult)

You can do rod bolts (the "weak" link) and bearings without splitting the case. Not as easy, but doable.

[rs911t]

You can do rod bolts (the "weak" link) and bearings without splitting the case. Not as easy, but doable.

Actually, the quote for the rod r&r was from Rennsport Systems and included ARP bolts and JWE bearings (Steve, among others, believe the Glyco bearings are crap). When I asked about installing the ARP bolts without splitting the case, the reply was he'd pre-stretch the bolts and give me a straight torque value. Gotta think that makes the job easier.

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by rs911t

... the reply was he'd pre-stretch the bolts and give me a straight torque value. Gotta think that makes the job easier.

Did the work include resizing the big an little rod ends? What was the turn around?

[KFJ]

Originally Posted by rs911t

Steve, among others, believe the Glyco bearings are crap

Yup, I heard the same from Billy (Performance Auto) - PITA to find Genuine Porsche, and more expensive, but with so many recommending against, worth the time and expense.

[rs911t]

Did the work include resizing the big an little rod ends? What was the turn around?

Yep. Measure, rebush and resize. $1400 for the set, bolts and bearings included. I don't know w/r/t the turnaround time.