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  #11  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:11 PM
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I was thinking maybe air relief for oil cooler and maybe brake duct routing.
Now that you have a dedicated thread, how about a description of the build?
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  #12  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:14 PM
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Well, Kurt, welcome to Hell for cutting up such a pristine tub. Your punish will be lookie no touchie for eternity.

Looks nice though . . .
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  #13  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:28 PM
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I'm finding I have an admittedly perverse desire to run my hands all over that naked tub. I could even just stand there and ogle for hours.

Sick, no?
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  #14  
Old 11-14-2006, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Mickelwait
I read the instructions and looked at the purty pictures that came with the premade towers. Next time I will just purchase the camber plates and make my own towers. 11 deg lean in towards center 6 deg rake back front to back. I used the original 3 holes where the old struts bolted in and went from there. Measured using a good magnetic protractor and tape from the front to the bolts as I went. The tub was set dead level so angles were set from earth as a ref point.
The tower mounting work looks good and strong. Just the trial and error to get to an ideal mounting point tilt and rake angle has to be worth the cost of the kit. At some point I'm sure you plan on bracing and triangulating the towers. Will the cage be involved in that bracing as well?
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  #15  
Old 11-14-2006, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinOyler
The tower mounting work looks good and strong. Just the trial and error to get to an ideal mounting point tilt and rake angle has to be worth the cost of the kit. At some point I'm sure you plan on bracing and triangulating the towers. Will the cage be involved in that bracing as well?
Oh yes, there will be much bracing. Cage will be to PCA CR code with some nod to SCCA on stuff such as size of base plates and the like. SCCA has a tight set of rules and I will follow thwem so long as they dfon't add weight without reason. any that is not required to be 1.5/.095 or to keep me from getting hurt will get progressivly smaller or be made from boxed sheet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo23dog
I'm finding I have an admittedly perverse desire to run my hands all over that naked tub. I could even just stand there and ogle for hours.

Sick, no?
Not sick at all, in fact feel free to do so, I will give you some sand paper as well.

It is real cool to see how the thing was put together and it is far more obvious when all is exposed than when in paint. This stamping got spot wellded to that one then the sub assembly was spot welded to some other sub assembly then all was presented and spot welded in. That kinda stuff. Real rough welding in many places you can tell where it was done by hand or not. I think much of the spot work was by hand as it is very uneven in aplication on places.
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2006, 11:38 AM
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Kurt:

WYIT - think of installing SRP "R control arm pivot box upgrade kit" [#562010 - 911 arms, #562020 - 930 arms] for dialing in more R camber. Have installed on both our 3.0L and 3.4L cars.

Aditionally, welded tubing [or 1" square] to brace torsion tube [behind where brackets are for trailing arm attachment] to transmission tunnel [easy access if you are removing R seats for access panel] b/c this area will crack and break away under high stress [track car, sticky tires, slicks...?]. Has become SOP at most race shops building race 911s putting out ~300hp+. Stress issues become worse with 930 arms and 14" slicks

On one car we welded in a plate in the tunnel for the 1" square to attach to [rather than sheet metal] and then ran the square to the torsion tube [attaching R behind where the SRP R control arm pivot box(s) are installed].

Here is a link to the pivot box install instructions from SRP. In figure B in the instructions you can imagine the tubing we installed to the torsion tub coming in from the left and attaching to the tube.

Food for thought.
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2006, 12:25 PM
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Am already building my own set of R arm Boxes. SRP should have not put the instructions on the website if the expect to sell them to a cheapskate reverse engineer like me. Took a good long look at how they are built and installed and went from there. Am pondering all the many ways that the T tube and boxes can be reinforced and conected to other parts. Also, as I am adding coil over at all four corners so the rear shock towers and cross bar will need to be reinforced/ braced as well.

1. Finish up cutting and cleaning up the tub.
2. install drivers compartment cage and body stiffining extensions. (the fun part)
3. figure and set up oil system device locations such as oil tank, cooler and cooler ducting and fuel cell setup. This all plays into the front fire wall reinstall. (waiting on oil tank, have cell in hand, thanks to Mark A)
4.Front fire wall will be a lot of work to fill in all the holes but is required to remain in place by PCA CR rules. Dealer installed AC just riddled it with even more giant holes that normal. I will replace badly cut and mostly hole sections using same guage materal and follow the original lines except where the oil tank will be set. That area will protrude into the pass side foot well and be fully metal firewall boxed from the A piller root across to the tunnel. I have seeen this area modified in GT case befor so it should be legal for me too. Upper section will slope up to windsheld base and behind the cage cross bar. This will isolate the tank and fuel cell from drivers compartment and add a little geometric X bracing too.

Jase do you have pix of you tubing and susp reinforcments? Allways looking for good ideas.
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  #18  
Old 11-17-2006, 01:37 PM
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Kurt, I'd be interested in seeing your camber boxes. I too have thought about reverse engineering them (I made my own trailing arm monoballs, and a camber box looks simple in comparison - but pictures always help.)

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  #19  
Old 11-17-2006, 01:53 PM
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I'm interested in this kind of stuff too.
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  #20  
Old 11-17-2006, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Jase do you have pix of you tubing and susp reinforcments? Allways looking for good ideas.
Will look though different HDs for them.

In the theme of adding lightness ... one of the race shops out there has the bucks for FG and CF rockers [inner and outer]. Not exactly legal though .... Maybe AIR products / M.A.Shaw / TRE, etc... sells them by now ...
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