[William Miller]

I must also be lucky!
I replaced the lines last night. Turned the nut with a huge adjustable wrench with a 2 1/2 foot pipe on it. I counterheld the pipe with a pipe wrench. I was waiting for something to break, but it didn't. At the thermostat end (inside the fromt of the rear left wheel well) I had to take the pipe off that goes to the oil tank first. It was in front of the other one.
The back pipe (the one that needed replacing) was tighter, but broke loose. The new line has some really funky bends in it. I can't figure out why it has so many contortions. The steel pipe goes parellel to the other line untill it get's past the clamp that holds it to the body. It then turns to rubber for about 12" then back to steel with several bends in it almost like a sink trap. They could have made it with a more direct route.

I replaced my clutch disk and bearing. I also replaced the transmission input shaft seal. The seal is pressed into the guide tube that the release bearing slides on. I found the secret to remove the tube on Bently's manual. The tube is held on the transmission with two screws. Even though you take out the screws it does not come off easily. The tube actually extends into the transmission about 10mm past the flange.
Bently described how to make a double ended hook to remove the tube.
The tube has a hole in the top and the bottom. I made the hook from a wire bucket handle (Like on a 5 gal. bucket). Bend a hook in one end of the wire, put it in one hole. Bend the wire arround the end of the shaft and back to the other hole. Make a hook on that end and put it in the hole. Now you can take a big flat screwdriver and stick it between the end of the hook and the end of the shaft and pry the tube out.

The seal is stuck on the inside end of the tube. Wayne recomends replacing the seal so I bought one a while ago. He didn't mention the o-ring that seals the tube to the transmission so don't forget that. My o-ring was not perfect, but I was not going to wait for a new one. I reinstalled the o-ring and put a little non-hardening permatex on it for good luck.

The one man engine lift / install went very well. here's what I did.
I kept the front wheels on the ground. I lifted the ass end way up with a small floor jack on either side. One on a jack pad and one under the frame near the jack pad. You need a short (about 6-8") piece of 4x4 on top of the jacks to get the car high enough to roll the engine under the back.
The engine was on the ATV jack witha piece of 3/4 " plywood supporting the heat exchangers. I'm not sure the plywoos is actually necessary.
Once the engine was under the bay I lowered the car and raised the jack until I could get the transmission parallel to the ground.

When I got them in alignment I took measurements. The bottom edge of the torsion tubes were 21 1/2" off the floor and the top of the pad on the ATV jack was 14" (Recall that this does not count the 3/4" plywood.)
My jack stands are about 1 1/2 -2" short.

It took me some trial and error to get it to this point, but I think it will be easily repeatable if we set it up the first time using these numbers.

At this point the engine mated very easily with some wiggling and pushing.
I could see the clutch fork align by shining the drop light in the side hole and looking in the top hole. (This was with the engine seperated a bit. Before the pressure plate closes the gap. When the gap was closed I checked again by shining the light in the top hole and looking in the side hole with a mirror. Lastly to double check I pulled the engine out a bit and it all slid back together easily.

Once it was buttoned together I lifted the engine and lowered the car until I could get the rear mounting bolts caught and tightened.


The only difficulty I had was with the top barrel nut that also holds the started on. I found some bad threads so I took the barrel nut off the bottom of the starter and put it on the top stud. I don't recall having this problem before, but it was impossible to get my allen head socket on the nut to tighten it. The flange of the starter was interfearing with the sholder of the socket. I ended up using the allen wrench that was in the tool kit for the car to tighten this. I extended it with another wrench to get enought torque. BTW I couldn't find the torque value for these anywhere.
There was a general list for various size bolts in Waynes book.

The back up light switch wires are a bitch. I ended up breaking one of the connectors off and will need to resolder it.

Tonight I'm ready to connect the clutch, fuel lines, the wires and other misc stuff and maybe even get it fired up.

At this point, I'm wondering what I'm forgetting?