[ruffyz]

Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951

What's your timeline looking like on this? Did you see my response to your PM -- the car will be on jackstands for the next few weeks but after that will be good to go...

Also, did you mean "redoing the t-bars"? Not sure where the TT came into the conversation.

I'm in no hurry really. Yeah, torsion bar is what I meant. The TT is a whole different ballgame of annoying.

[smdubovsky]

To those that remove the t-bars, does anyone make a 935 style spring plate replacement for 944s? (a fixed plate + rod end for toe?) Would be simpler to install & adj than the elephant polybronze.

[APKhaos]

Originally Posted by smdubovsky

To those that remove the t-bars, does anyone make a 935 style spring plate replacement for 944s? (a fixed plate + rod end for toe?) Would be simpler to install & adj than the elephant polybronze.

Never seen one. Most go with the stock trailing arms, which are pretty much bombproof, and coil over setup.

[RedOctober]

Originally Posted by ruffyz

Anyone want to give me a ride-along in their '44, so I can get a feel for different spring rates?

I am not exactly close to you, but I would be happy to give you a ride in my '86 with 425# springs in the front, and 30mm T-bars. Sways are not stock, but are not the biggest either (can't remember the sizes now).

If I can change the T-bars, ANYONE can (although I did have some help from good samaritans on this board).

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by RedOctober

If I can change the T-bars, ANYONE can (although I did have some help from good samaritans on this board).

I SOLD that car so I wouldn't have to do this job, and still got the opportunity to participate.

[hobiecat]

Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951

If you don't mind me asking: do you suffer from understeer? IME, 30mm T-bars lend themselves a bit better to 350# springs. Then again, what sway bars do you have? I'd be hesitant to go with 400# springs + 30mm T-bars in an N/A since you don't really have many ways of inducing oversteer at that point!

Then again, it also depends on your driving style + other mods. My setup (350# + 30mm) is with a stock interior/panels/wt distribution, so YMMV.

I wanted neutral and that's exactly what I have. (Sliding around corners is for 911's....and I guess 944 Turbos?).
I have enough problems to overcome driving a lower horsepower car.....so the way I see it, sliding simply means
I'm losing momentum. Losing momentum = bad.

The car is very neutral and sticks. I am always pleasantly surprised when I push it beyond the point where I think it
should get loose. So - it's still got more and I still have more to learn from it. When I get past that point, I'll be looking for an upgrade.

I also did the full Elephant Racing upgrades - my control arm bushings were replaced with sealed bearings, and I
went polybronze on the spring plates.

Do I think it's the absolute best setup for me? Yep. For someone else? Maybe not. All I know is I like it the way it is.

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by hobiecat

Do I think it's the absolute best setup for me? Yep. For someone else? Maybe not. All I know is I like it the way it is.

Good. Learn with the car you have until you can't learn anymore. Then take it to someone and have them look it over and tweak it.

I can get some nice neutral sliding with my car, it's fun!

[ausgeflippt951]

Originally Posted by smdubovsky

To those that remove the t-bars, does anyone make a 935 style spring plate replacement for 944s? (a fixed plate + rod end for toe?) Would be simpler to install & adj than the elephant polybronze.

I'd be curious to see what that would look like; I'm not familiar with 935 rear susp. Sounds intriguing, but then again these are 944's here so the idea of upgrading to a 935-based anything is not typically a sentence one hears very often. Other than the K27/6 or K27/8 (which I'm not sure the 935 even had).

Originally Posted by hobiecat

I wanted neutral and that's exactly what I have. (Sliding around corners is for 911's....and I guess 944 Turbos?).
I have enough problems to overcome driving a lower horsepower car.....so the way I see it, sliding simply means
I'm losing momentum. Losing momentum = bad.

The car is very neutral and sticks. I am always pleasantly surprised when I push it beyond the point where I think it
should get loose. So - it's still got more and I still have more to learn from it. When I get past that point, I'll be looking for an upgrade.

I also did the full Elephant Racing upgrades - my control arm bushings were replaced with sealed bearings, and I
went polybronze on the spring plates.

Do I think it's the absolute best setup for me? Yep. For someone else? Maybe not. All I know is I like it the way it is.

Cool -- very good to know. I've been very pleased with the neutrality of my car as well which made me scratch my head. Then again, a well-handling car is due to a host of factors, not just one; e.g., perhaps you're running different-sized tires than I (I'm 225/245R16).

Originally Posted by VaSteve

Good. Learn with the car you have until you can't learn anymore. Then take it to someone and have them look it over and tweak it.

I can get some nice neutral sliding with my car, it's fun!

Controlled four-wheel drifts through T10 @ SP? I just got to experience some of that action this weekend. It's like an adrenaline shot straight to the heart.

[hobiecat]

Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951

Cool -- very good to know. I've been very pleased with the neutrality of my car as well which made me scratch my head. Then again, a well-handling car is due to a host of factors, not just one; e.g., perhaps you're running different-sized tires than I (I'm 225/245R16).

Yep....I run 15x7's all the way around. 235/50R15's.

[Potomac-Greg]

Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951

What didn't you like about #1? Interesting to hear. I personally don't have much experience with #1; my current car is #2 and I love it.

The #1 option (keeping torsion bars and adding coilovers) limits your ability to lower the car unless you want to re-index the torsion bars -- and if I was doing that, I'd just get stiffer torsion bars. Also, if you use both spring methods, then you need to buy a set of zero-rate helper springs for the coilovers because there will be situations where the coilover extends itself beyond the coil spring length (e.g. entering a steep driveway at an angle), and the coil spring might get hung up on the coilover when it comes back down.

Lastly, option #1 was a compromise based on my lack of mechanical courage. It took several more months before I built up the courage to take out the spring plates. As confirmed this past weekend, the car still hauls ass under new ownership!