[rs911t]

Folks,

I've posted pictures from the drop at here. Thanks to Jason for shooting the digital images. I have more, but they're on film.

I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts on the oil leaks. I annotated the last picture on the page to indicate where the oil dye under UV light showed new oil.

Have a look. Thanks!

[Trak Ratt]

I like the breather hose theory. Especially after you check to make sure all the hoses are connected properly & you have the right oil tank cap on. Don't forget the sending unit is right there too. Patches on the case are scary but if done right (only time tells) no problem.

[rs911t]

That's what I figure. The next question is how to repair. Jason mentioned a tool that can be used to fixed the fittings. When you look at the PET disk, it's the connection between 911.207.028.02 and 911.207.025.01. The latter is the long pipe to the front cooler.

[William Miller]

I like the dye idea but never used it. Can you give more detail?
Can you leave the dye in for an extended period or does it need to get flushed out relativly soon? I'd also like to know if it remains in the engine forever or if you need to flush it out.
Were'd you get it how much?

I had a bad leak in my main. The seal was dammaged somehow when I mated the case halves together. Even though it was a really bad leak the oil pretty much stayed between the flywheel and the case and then splattered the inside of the trans housing. The clutch mating surface really never got wet.

So It looks like you have it comming from a few different places. Hardest to cure would be where the #6 jug meets the case. If you tighten the head stud back up do you think it will seal? Maybe enough to live with it?

I sorta wonder if you fix the easy stuff and clean the dye off real well if you will be able to trace down a small leak later?

I have a real small leak somewhere. I was thinking of putting in the dye and watch as the engine warms up. That way I would catch it on the first sight maybe before it get's blown everywhere?
Does this make sence?

[Trak Ratt]

The dye can stay in until the next oil change (every 3K miles right) & is eailer to clean off than the backed on oil. Works best on a clean engine :o

[William Miller]

Thanks David, where did you get the dye?

[rs911t]

Can you give more detail?

I bought 2 small bottles of dye at Fairfax Auto Parts. Each is said to work with 5 quarts of oil. Got a little UV penlight from Pelican. Dumped the dye into the oil tank and drove it around for 20+ miles. Once the engine was on the stand I just shined the UV light at places to find new, glowing oil. Pretty cool - never knew this stuff existed!

So It looks like you have it comming from a few different places. Hardest to cure would be where the #6 jug meets the case.

At this point I think 90% of the oil came from the leaking connection, ran down the lines in the right wheel well then onto the heat exchanger. From there, it was blown over the bottom of the cooler and case, including the #6 jug. So, I'll fix the leaking hose, clean the case and see what happens.

It also looks as if theres a small leak from the pully seal.

I have a real small leak somewhere. I was thinking of putting in the dye and watch as the engine warms up. That way I would catch it on the first sight maybe before it get's blown everywhere?

The florescent oil is very noticable under the UV light. Even with lots of oil, dirty oil on the case it is quite easy to tell the fresh oil from the old.

[William Miller]

Thanks again. Is UV light = black light?
I might have one of those in a box of old stuff in the attic.

[Jase007]

I might have one of those in a box of old stuff in the attic.

Yeah, next to the Panther, foghat, frampton and Boston (the band for you gen x and y'ers) black light posters

Jase

[Trak Ratt]

There’s a reason they are called “oldies but goodies”. Come by the old folks home when you’re my age & we’re play all the tones from today that have stayed popular over the next 20 years or so