[TD in DC]

As most of you know, my '02 Targa has been lowered significantly with PSS9s and GT3 adjustable swaybars. I also now have the stock Carerra rear wing with the front deflector installed.

I run stock brake pads and Castrol SRF brake fluid.

I have never experienced brake fade.

I get through 3-4 DEs on a single set of stock brake pads.

To date, I have had a minor issue with the brake pad wear indicator light illuminating when the brake pads are fine. The problem is that the plastic housing for the indicator has been melting. When it melts, the sensor pops out of place and starts rubbing on the inside of the rim, which causes the idiot light to illuminate. One would assume that the front brakes would experience this long before the rears, but I have had one front and one rear fail (at different occassions).

Now . . . the easy assumption is that I am overcooking my brakes at DEs but . . . I really do not think that is the case. How can I make it through 3-4 DEs on a single set of STOCK brake pads? Also, how come I am not experiencing any brake fade?

I assume the problem may be due to the fact that I have been so successful in getting the air out from under my car that sufficient air is no longer circulating around the brake area, which leads to the overheating. Does this sound possible? If not, what else? If so, what can I do? I have ordered GT3 RS brake ducts, which I plan to install to help the front brakes. I am unaware of anything for the rears. Do you guys know of any other good solutions?

As always, thanks in advance for your help.

[87turbolook911]

I've easily done 3-4 DE's on one set of pads. Might I suggest that you simply disconnect the pad sensors and secure them with zip ties in a manner where they won't get tangled in something. That's what I did.

Those wear indicators, are for those people who never check there brakes. The light lets them know they have to take it to the dealer. I'm sure you don't need the light to remind you.

[TD in DC]

Originally Posted by 87turbolook911

I've easily done 3-4 DE's on one set of pads. Might I suggest that you simply disconnect the pad sensors and secure them with zip ties in a manner where they won't get tangled in something. That's what I did.

Those wear indicators, are for those people who never check there brakes. The light lets them know they have to take it to the dealer. I'm sure you don't need the light to remind you.

The idiot light is not really the problem. I can ignore that (a well placed piece of black tape over the idiot light works just fine), or do what you suggest. I am much, much more worried about the fact that it is getting so hot down there that the entire plastic housing for the sensors (rather than the sensors themselves) is MELTING! Yikes. That just cannot be good.

[Chopper Dropper]

What Vu said, disconnect them. You will be generating a lot of heat down there and your street pads which are designed to run cold on the street are probably getting damn hot, even though your real expensive brake fluid is limiting fade. Try Race pads or at least High Perf. Street pads. You can change them out after each event. Race pads do not work as well on the street, though I have done that for years, just takes a bit of anticipation and more pedal force till they warm up. Call Paul Weston, Weston Motorsports ( in Panorama) for the real story of what may be happening.
Dirk

[TD in DC]

Originally Posted by Chopper Dropper

What Vu said, disconnect them. You will be generating a lot of heat down there and your street pads which are designed to run cold on the street are probably getting damn hot, even though your real expensive brake fluid is limiting fade. Try Race pads or at least High Perf. Street pads. You can change them out after each event. Race pads do not work as well on the street, though I have done that for years, just takes a bit of anticipation and more pedal force till they warm up. Call Paul Weston, Weston Motorsports ( in Panorama) for the real story of what may be happening.
Dirk

Dirk,

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting that the stock pads, although not wearing at a particularly rapid pace, may generate higher temperatures than race pads. The higher temperatures that are melting the brake sensor housings (i.e, the plastic part into which the sensors are pushed -- these parts will still be there even if I tie off the sensors to eliminate the idiot light problem) might be reduced by using the race pads.

In any event, the two upcoming watkins glen events most likely will be the last events for the targa now that I have a 944. As soon as it is ready . . .

TD

[Chopper Dropper]

Yup, what you said, understand that the heat is still there even if you tie off the sensors. Do you need the plastic housing at all!!. Also I am sure your car is quite a lot heavier than a GT3 etc, especially as a Targa.The fact that you have not boiled the Castol is probably a testament plus also to Porsche for their street set up. With lowering the car, I would think you still have the same amount of air for the most part going under it, just moving faster so if enough directed at the rotors, should keep reasonably cool.Still recommend talking to Paul
Dirk

[Lucky]

I think the problem is... 02 targa = street car... 02 GT3 or GT3 Cup = track car.

Next time you get a chance, look at a GT3 to see how the Porsche engineers addressed this. Do GT3's even have this sensor? Is its mount/housing different? Could you retrofit one to your car?

[TD in DC]

Yes, the GT3s have the sensor. In fact, the setup is very similar (although they have larger calipers/rotors) apart from the larger brake duct in the picture I attached. It might be that my car is actually a little lower than the GT3 . . .

[}{arlequin]

first of all.... anytime you can find an excuse to slap on some RS parts onto your car, it's a good thing

second, get better pads.... none of us, not one, is using completely generic stock pads on the track... your car is so heavy that you should be the first one in line for a better compound. I can't imagine the heat you build up

third, you're improving, and taxing your brakes more and more. It'll only worsen. "do the right thing" (I know, I know, you won't use it any more after next month, but even on the street, you *could* use better brake pads. Plenty of intermediate stuff out there.)

[BillJ]

Definitely talk to Paul - he will get you the best pads for your use. He will ask all the right questions for your intended use of the car. If you are going to use it for only street from here on out, your current pads will likely be just fine. If you do switch, Paul will most likely recomend a relatively dust-free, slightly more aggressive than stock pad.