[MatP]

A PPI of a 3.2 911 that I want to buy revealed oil leaks coming from the cam housing. The car had a top end 4k miles ago, but according to the PPI mechanic, the shop who did the work (some small shop in Alabama) did not use the proper sealer to put everything back together. The car is currently at a reputable Long Island shop and I am being quoted $1500 and 2 days for this repair. While I am waiting to hear back from the owner, I wanted to get input from the group on how hard of a job this would be to a new 911 owner with no engine rebuilding experience. I know I would be into it for the cam tools and an engine stand, but what else?

I am definitely up for the challenge but I am not sure if I am biting off more than I can chew.

Thanks,
Mat

[markwemple]

Mat,

Most of us here have been successful the first time around (I'm not there yet). So, you are in good hands if you want to do this. I will say that there will be some here who will reccomend fixing all the 3.2 ills while you are there. That might not be a bad idea if you plan on keeping her a while and are doing the work yourself. Afterall, if the shop goffed that one, what else could be wrong, studs?...................

[Charlie Stylianos]

Where exactly is the leak? Cam housing to the heads, or cam housing to the chain box? The latter is easier to fix, but both will require re-timing of the cams. The only specialty tools you'll need are the timing equip (z-block, dial indicator, cam holding tool). You'll also need the cam box gasket kit as these gaskets will most probably not be reusable and necessary sealants.

If the leak is coming from the cam housing to the chain box union (gasket and o-ring), you can fix this while engine is in the car, working on your back, but can be done in a good weekend. If the leak is from the heads-cam housing, the engine most definitely needs to come out and put on a stand. The whole Motronic (with fan/housing) can be lifted off the engine as 1 unit, then its just digging into the mechanicals from there. Give yourself a good week if you havent dont this before. If you are going to DIY, MAKE SURE both the heads and cam tower are absolutely clean and dry when applying the Loctite 574 (3-bond, whatever) as you'll see what a PITA if you have to do it over again.

[MatP]

Mark and Charlie,
Thanks for the responses. Charlie, unfortunately, I do not know many details about the leak. The mech just said that its coming from the cam housing. Once I come to an arrangement with the seller, I will call the shop and get as much information as I can. I am still going to pursue this car as the rest of the PPI came back very positive. Compression and leakdown were both good and car is in very good condition. It is just a matter of whether or not this would be a good first project for me. To be honest, I would love to tackle this - it would give me a great opportunity to get the motor out and cleaned up and do the usual while you are in theres. I would learn a TON about the car. But I don't know if I am (technically) ready.

I will post again this afternoon if I can find out more information regarding the nature of the leak.

Thanks again.
~m

[APKhaos]

If you are up for the car otherwise, use the shop's $1500 quote as negotiation leverage. For this purpose, assume the cam to head joint is the culprit and that a spendy shop fix is the only solution. Any other buyer would be in the same position.

If you buy the car, then there may be alternative Dorki repair strategies.

[MatP]

I am definitely up for the car and will be using the $1500 estimate as leverage in the price. I have an offer on the table which the owner is considering. I will know in a couple of hours what the deal is.

Assuming we reach an agreement, it will be a matter of trying to decide if I should DIY or have the work done locally.

It is also my understanding that, while this leak does need attention soon, it is not a dire emergency. Am I correct? Car will be driven home from Long Island with this leak.

~m

[Vicegrip]

Mat, Sounds like there are good folks to help and the tools are availble so if you get the car and don't DIY you better not post here any more...

Let us know if the deal works out.

[Chopper Dropper]

Unlikely be a problem driving home from Long Island,depending on just how bad the leak is (one drop per minute-Alaskan pipeline break). Depends on the wrenches opinion as to define leak, to some I know a quart an hour is fine and just saves time because all you need to do is change the filter every now and then I don't know where you will find volunteers to help with an engine drop, but just to be safe make sure you have your perimeter secure with many alarms and locks. Couple of NRA stickers and a Rottweiler or two won't hurt.
Dirk

[Jim Richards]

Mat, here's the hard part: ample provisions of coffee, donuts, beer (PBR for RL) and pizza/burgers/whatever roadkil RL likes to eat since returning from his China vacation. Oh, best be thinking about the track schedule and tech session dates as you plan your engine drop date.

[little b]

Originally Posted by Jim Richards

Mat, here's the hard part: ample provisions of coffee, donuts, beer (PBR for RL) and pizza/burgers/whatever roadkil RL likes to eat since returning from his China vacation. Oh, best be thinking about the track schedule and tech session dates as you plan your engine drop date.

oddly enough, these are the number one concerns.....strange but true!