[cmartin]

Need a little help. Since the engine it out of the car it only made sense to check the status of the clutch. Prior to the drop I had no clutch issues and generally take pretty good car of the clutch when driving.

After looking at the below pictures, does it make any sense to just replace the disk? I know, replace everything. Thing is my budget is tight and I would rather save a little $$ is possible. The pressure plate and flywheel look overheated to me, but are smooth to the touch. Any advice?

If I do go with a clutch kit, anyone have a recommendation for best price/quality? thepartsbin/Pelican and Vertex are all pretty close in price. Any secrets I'm missing?

Thanks!

[markwemple]

I guess it would depend upon the last time everything was replaced. The pp is very strong, so check for craked teeth and hot spots and grooves on it. To check the bearing, turn it slowly for smoothness and noise. I can't tell by your pic but how is the flywheel?

[Marc A]

Question in my mind is how much material is left on the disk?? are the rivets close to the edge of the material??

Pilot bearing looks like it could use a good packing with bearing grease.

[BW911]

As long as you're in there .... replace it. You won't regret it.

Bill W.

[matt de maria]

From the pictures I can see lots of hot spots on pp and flywheel which will only get worse with time and cause more clutch chatter. (Not to mention if the flywheel and pp is flat or not.) Grind flywheel and get new clutch package.

[cmartin]

Thanks guys, I needed a reality check. The engine drop wasnt a big deal, but I dont want to do it again any time soon. I'll order a new clutch kit this week.

[cmartin]

Next question. Is the aluminum pressure plate worth the extra money? Vertex has it for $399, quite a bit cheaper than most. I think I can get the standard kit for ~$225 w/ some web coupons from another source. Sure, lighter is better, but is it really better in this case?

Any insight is much appreciated!

[markwemple]

From what I have heard the sc flywheel is relatively light. BTW mine was only $40 to resurface.

[Charlie Stylianos]

Chris,

Holding the lightweight AL pressure plate and the stock PP in each hand, the weight diffrence is quite noticable. Will you be able to notice this difference on the street/track is another question. My opinion is the butt dyno will probably not notice a difference with the heavier stock flywheel and otherwise stock engine, but a back to back dyno session (if possible) with stock and lightweight flywheel may show an increase of a few HP's. You probably will not notice a faster engine spin up, but with tranny in neutral or clutch disengaged, you'll probably notice the faster wind down.

Pro's: A faster engine spin up due to relieveing the engine a few .lbs of rotating mass means a possible couple more HP's at the rear wheels.

Con's: A faster spin up also means a faster wind down, so good/better heal/toe and revmatching technique required on the track espically if your decel valve is plugged and tranny is on the fritz

BTW: I'd do it just to force myself to be a better rev matcher

Just my $.02

[Rick Lee]

When in doubt, throw it out. You know, once you have your flywheel cut, you'll need new bolts, should replace flywheel seal, should get a new pilot bearing, etc. I'd go with the light flywheel and/or pressure plate. How many times do you want to do this job?