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Old 11-01-2005, 01:00 PM
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Default Pedal Bushings or Clutch Cable first?

I need to replace the clutch cable and refresh the pedal bushings in my car.

Is there a preferred order to doing this? My only thought to doing the CC first was that I would have it adjusted properly when I pulled the pedals and put them back in. Will this actually be the case?

Also, I have a groan coming from the Clutch pedal when I push it in. When it snaps back it doesn't alway return all the way, it sticks about an inch from full return. When it does return, I feel it hitting the bottom of my foot. Any guess as to whether this is pedal bushings or cable induced?

I imagine it's going to be fixed either way, but I know an improperly installed cable will cause a similar problem.
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:42 PM
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Your cable adjustment could be off, or the helper spring on the clutch pedal (in the cluster) could be broken (this is VERY common). Do the bushings and the cable at the same time. They're both cheap, and you'll be stunned at how nice everything feels when you're done.
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:48 PM
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well... not having smoothly operating pedals will not impede your driving as much as not having a clutch cable

on the other hand, i find digging in the tunnel to connect/disconnect the cable such a big PITA, that I'd rather avoid doing it twice. if you just replace the cable (when was the last time?) and then you do the pedals, you'll have to do this unpleasant task twice. then again you may get more proficient at it that way and if your cable ever breaks at night, you'll have no problems replacing it w/o a light

regardless, the clutch pedal not returning would have me worried. does this mean you have plastic bushings in there? if that's the case, there may also be a master cyl. leak involved. i know most recommend the bronze type, but the benefit of plastic is that it's designed to swell/expand under some nasty fluids and it will be an early warning system to a developing problem elsewhere.

my brake pedal would bind and not release the pressure from the calipers and that pointed me to a faulty master cyl. even if it seems like ancient technology, the factory knew what they were doing.
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:50 PM
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Ditto on doing together and the other suspect causes. The bushes on the cluster almost never go bad unless you’ve had a master cylinder episode. On boosted cars it would have to be a truly memorable episode. Doesn’t mean they don’t go bad, also doesn’t mean you shouldn’t replace when you R&R the cluster. Just about everyone including me uses the bronze bushes. But the stock plastics have lasted a long time, not much chance of them getting ruined by brake fluid on SCs either. Likely quieter and self lubricating too.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:24 PM
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I have all the parts (including brass bushings) in my garage. I wanted to see if there was a strategy. I knew the cable was sketchy ever since the motor went back in. I had a binding problem then (which I thought was resolved) but remanifested sometime over the summer. I have been busy/lazy.

I had actually been carrying the spare clutch cable in my track kit - just in case! Now it's time to do it.

Thanks for the advice on the leaks, I'll bump it up the priority scale.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:42 PM
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steve,
i was lazy too and i bought a complete rebuilt pedal cluster... and kept my old one

if it's the same one as for your car (others can chime in if there are variations) you can have mine so you can rebuild at your leisure (it will require some clean up and a repaint) with no car downtime other than the swap itself. then you can just give me your old cluster when you remove it.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:46 PM
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The boosted vs. non-boosted pedal assemblies are different. Steve, it's a really easy job. Just have a little axle grease on hand to lube up the bronze bushings.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:49 PM
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is steve's boosted?
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:50 PM
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Do both at the same time. The bushing on the clutch pedal lever is probably worn, so the cable would probably not be in adjustment anyway once the cluster is rebuilt. Replacing the helper spring is by far the physically hardest repair I have ever done on my car, even harder than "simply unscrewing" the stock tie rods. Most will tell you the spring cannot be replaced by one person. They are not wrong by much. I can help if we do it on a weeknight.
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by }{arlequin
is steve's boosted?
The brakes not the engine!

Thanks for the offer Dave.

I'm looking for a relaxing project I can do after work in an evening or two (with repaint). Sounds like it's time. I have been taken out of the Carolina VIR event by the family, so no real rush. When's Zone 2?????

edit: Dan, I may give you a call if I can't get it!
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