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  #1  
Old 06-28-2005, 12:21 PM
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Default 911 SC Highbeam Switch Failure

Hi Guys,

I have a highbeam switch failure on our 80SC. Was out driving last night and could not switch off the highbeams. For sure the highbeams are stuck with the blue indicator on the speedo illuminated and the fogs disabled. BTW, the flash function never worked since I got the car in January so I knew this was something on the horizion.

Funny thing is, I'd noticed for some time that there was not much light from the headlights. Being not ready to switch to H4s, I just this weekend replaced the headlamps with 7" round sealedbeam hallogens, thinking this would help. $20 later, the headlamp output was no brighter than with the older headlamps.

I also noticed that with the lights now stuck on highbeam, the brightness is about what I would have expected at lowbeam. All this indicates to me that there might not have been enough voltage to the headlights and that this problem was developing over time due to the usual culprits.

I'm going to pull the steering wheel to get a look at the switch stalk. I've searched here and on Pelican to find that cleaning and adjusting the contacts might help, so that's my plan at this point.

For those that been though this, can you help? BTW, if you bought a new part, who had best deal?

Thanks,
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2017 BMW M240 xDrive Vert
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2005, 12:29 PM
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This is from a post I put up on PPBBS a couple years ago. Note that my highbeam switch wasn't stuck like your's it just didn't "flash". It sounds like you may have a more serious issue that will require a new switch.

I had a pretty minor problem with my turn signal switch - no high beams in the "flash" mode. Other than that, the switch worked fine. While the steering wheel was off this weekend, I decided to pull the switch to see if it could be repaired (didn't feel like dropping $100 on a new switch).

The first thing to do was to verify that I had +12V on the red/white [30] wire coming from the
headlight switch. This is the "flash" voltage for the high beam circuit. Power for the regular high beam circuit (stalk pushed forward) comes in on a different line (white/black [56]). Test with a DVM showed +12V at the switch - just no voltage out when the stalk is pulled into "flash" mode. (ed. note: I've tried every way I know to reword that last sentance.)

The repair is quite easy and took all of 5 minutes. Looking at the first picture, you can see the flash contacts circled in red (the std high/low beam contacts are right above and to the right). They're recessed inside the
switch so they can be a pain to get to.



The first step was to take one of my wife's emory boards, cut the tip down, and clean the contacts. Next, take a small pair of long needle nose pliers and bend the contacts so they are close to each other, but not touching. Test the conectivity of the switch by hooking your DVM (on the lowest resistance setting) to the red/white [30] supply wire and to the solid white [56A] wire going to the high beam circuit.

Getting the contacts to the right position takes a little patience, but is not hard. You may need to mess with the top contact from the back of the switch (see picture below). Its the long strip of copper immediately above where all the wires go into the switch. You'll need to cut the cable tie off the switch to get to it.



Once the contacts are in the right position, cycle the switch several times to make sure everything is settled correctly. All in all, pretty easy repair. I also cleaned the contacts of the main headlight switch while I was there, and inspected all the solder connections. I bet a lot of switches could be repaired very easily like this.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2005, 12:32 PM
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Regrettably, cleaning the contact probably won't work. What's happened (as on my '83) is that the ribbon connector from the turn signal/headlight stalk to the controller has degraded to such an extent that you should replace the switch. It's really a lot of fun. As far as who has the best price, I bought from PP. Now that I'm in San Diego, it's just down the (I 5) street from ELAY, so my delivery time was truncated. Good luck, hope you're a contortionist (Gotta climb under the dash to do this)!
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:38 PM
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It's best to have a gf with small hands do this repair for you. I did and it worked out great. I sure miss that woman.
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2005, 10:51 PM
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Well, even if for no other reason than the car being 25 years old, I've sprung for a new switch and am planning to use relays in the manner of the M. Sucro kit.

Anyone have a copy of the instructions for that kit that they wouldn't mind emailing to me? Or, know where they are posted on the web?

TIA,
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2017 BMW M240 xDrive Vert
2004 BMW 330Ci Coupe (DD)
1996 BMW 328i
2006 Cayenne S
1980 SC Targa (A1R KULD)

Gone but not forgotten:
2010 Boxster S (sold)
2000 Boxster S (sold)
73 911T Targa (sold)
67 912 (sold)
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