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Old 08-24-2011, 01:23 PM
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Default 1988 Targa Street/Track

Ok, I've hit up Dr K and VASteve for some good advice - - VASteve recommended starting a thread:

Background: I just finished NASA HPDE 1 (still probably got a couple more to do) and now I'm ready to start throwing money down the rat hole, i.e. 'i've go the bug'. So, I'm looking to get the Targa set up for HPDE 1-4 and maybe a little TT. I want to be able to drive it there, and still use it on the street a few times a month.

Here's whats been done so far: Airbox modified, Autothority chip, lowered 1", racing dynamics strut brace. Everything else stock.

So where do I get some bang for the buck on setting it up? I'm looking at racing seats, bolt in cage, r888 tires, and brake pads/rotors... Dr K weighed in on pads and monoball etc.

Any suggestions/ideas appreciated.. Black talon???
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:34 PM
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I put in 22/30s and revalved Bilsteins (from RennSportSystems), Elephant bushings on front a-arm and spring plates. After ~2-3 years I replaced the stock sways with Smart Racing setups.

Also have a DASport roll bar, Recaro sport seats and harnesses.

FWIW, I did not do any of the suspension upgrades (except brake pads) or track tires until I had been in the White Group for half a season.

Def put in some track pads, but you should be fine with 'stock (OEM) rotors.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:35 PM
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Whoa Hoss, learn to drive it more as is. Stock the car is way ahead of you with only one HPDE. Do you really know how much tail light or understeer you like. Putting cage and race seats reduces the capability of a street car. Don't need even more agressive brake pads till you learn what you have. I could go on and on, it's your car, but if you want to learn, leave it the fuch alone till you have 40 or so track days and just a little idea of what you want, and then change components one at a time!!
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
So where do I get some bang for the buck ... ?
Seat time
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:51 PM
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If your seats and belts truly don't hold you in very well, you might consider better seats and harnesses. I'd avoid a cage, but perhaps a rollbar instead as this will make removing the top easier for "street" use.

Make sure its in tip-top shape.. replace any worn/soft rubber components (brake lines, fuel lines, oil lines, suspension bushings)

FWIW, I ran my SC with 23+ year old stock suspension for 1-2 years (on top of my then 10+ years of DE experience) just so I could learn what I wanted to address with the car. Plus, its fun when you are fast and everyone else knows the car is still stock

Beyond that:

1) Seat time
2) Autocross (yes, a time suck, but you can/do learn some mad skillz - one of which is learning how to learn a NEW course quickly which leads to #3
3) Drive tracks other than SUMMIT POINT. Yes its convenient.. but take the time/money/effort to hit up a new track.. VIR, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio, Nelson ledges, Beave Run, Lime Rock, NJMSP etc. Variety truly is a spice!

I've run with other regions who were so tied to just one track that no one really knew how to "learn" another one track very well. Driving more than one also prevents the "ive driven this track 100 times" boredom that creeps in.

Until you know what you really want (maybe it won't be the car you currently have) I'd spend money working on the drover and then worry about throwing money at the car.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:54 PM
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I neglected to mention, as noted above, that I was almost in white when I went with R-compound tires and was in white before the suspension refresh (if your bushings are sagging, however, they should be redone although many of us have driven for years on the sagging bushings because we didn't know any better).

When Ben started driving (I was more advanced, in white), went back to street tires and that's when I really learned better car control and throttle steering. I agree with the above.

In terms of brake pads, there are compromise pads that are good for track and street, much less expensive than the full-on track pads, but won't burn up in a weekend like street pads. I used Kurve Friction (obtained from Paul Weston www.westonmotorsports.com).
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:11 PM
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Thanks everyone.. Seat time it is.. maybe some pads per Dr K. Should be at another group 1 at Alton w/NASA in Rocktober..
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:15 PM
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Another thing. NASA is great, but the instruction with our club is really excellent (unless you get me...). Are you joining us next week at VIR? You'd get tons of track time and lots of great instruction--you really should come. If you want to come and haven't had a track inspection, you can either go to any of the regular shops (that advertise in Der Vorganger) - most will do an inspection for free, or PM me because I think I have an idea of another solution near Vint Hill... (that doesn't actually involve me doing any work).
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:47 PM
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Ditto what others have said. Address any worn items in the suspension. What kind of shape are your shocks in? If they are old replace them. Off the shelf Bilstein Sports will serve you well. That's what I had in my race car. Learn it in stock form. Will make you a better driver down the road.

As far as brake pads go. There are streetable pads that will be better for light track use than stock, but not a full on track pad. Hawk HPS is one. I also back in the green group days used the PBR Metal Master pads and they worked fine for my skill level at the time. Then I progressed into race pads. Use stock rotors. Cheap and readily available.

And like others have said. Branch out. Try to get to VIR, NJMP and Watkins Glen.
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:52 PM
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Hey guys, not too many 23 year old cars couldn't use a suspension refresh! Ne Bilstein rear shocks and front struts are a good idea. They can also be rebuilt down the line to match t-bars too. Bring the car to one of our techs and we can check out the stock bushes to see if they need immediate attention too. Definitely change the trans fluid and flush the brakes system and clutch slave cylinder. R&R the bushes in the shifter and check that the accelerator linkage bushes are in good order. AND that the throttle opens all the way. Change your air filter. Also consider getting a decent dead peddle to help brace yourself. Targa’s have limited space for the left foot and having a nice flat surface to press on will help keep you upright around corners. Get some decent driving gloves and at the very least some wrestling shoes to wear on track. Get lots of seat time!
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