[Alan Herod]

Putting the car on the trailer after Sally came off the track revealed difficulty putting the car in first gear, like the clutch would not fully disengage. The pedal cluster is squeaking, the pedal feels heavier, and the helper spring under the car looks normal. The cable has at least 100,000 miles on it. The clutch is not that old (30K miles) and does not slip.

If not the cable -- how difficult is it to change the clutch? I have changed clutches in a variety of other cars; but, are there any peculiarities associated with a 911 clutch change?

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by Alan Herod

Putting the car on the trailer after Sally came off the track revealed difficulty putting the car in first gear, like the clutch would not fully disengage. The pedal cluster is squeaking, the pedal feels heavier, and the helper spring under the car looks normal. The cable has at least 100,000 miles on it. The clutch is not that old (30K miles) and does not slip.

If not the cable -- how difficult is it to change the clutch? I have changed clutches in a variety of other cars; but, are there any peculiarities associated with a 911 clutch change?

None on SCs but don’t you have a special setup with the newer motor. Cable easy just make sure you get the clevis pin in right or the throttle will stick. Ask me how I know Doing mine today if you want to come by and watch

[Jazzbass]

Like DR said, cable replacement is pretty easy. Make sure your pedal cluster bushings are in good shape - if not they'll bind and cause you issues (like broken clutch cables, etc). The rebuild process is actually pretty easy; the biggest PITA is getting the cluster out of the car.

If you do replace the cable, couple things to note. Make sure you set the gap and preload on the cable using the factory method listed in the Bently manual. This is where you unhook the cable, set the gap between the helper spring arm and the clutch arm, then rehook the cable and adjust the cable itself to close that gap a bit and set the preload.

Then, make sure you set the travel distance of the clutch cable. IIRC, this is 25mm and is set my moving the stop plate behind the clutch pedal. You don't want to over extend the clutch.

I'd probably go for these things (new cable, bushing, adjustment). If nothing changes, then it gets harder. The engine has to come out, most likely the tranny to (I always pull them together, some people don't). Could be a bad throw out bearing, bad clutch, or cracked shift fork. I'd try to eliminate as much as possible externally before going for the internals.

[Alan Herod]

Thanks for the replies. I looked under the car (still on the trailer) and the cable adjustment gap is closed. There is some slack in the cable (not much) - I replaced the cable in a friend's SC and know how easy that is -- the hardest part is in the footwell.

If the cable brakes which is the most common end -- I seem to remember the one I replaced was broken in the footwell at the clutch pedal?

If I have to replace the clutch, I will go with the full drop and replace the shift rod seal in the tranny (part on hand). When I replace the clutch in the Z car I did not touch the flywheel except with emery cloth. The clutch and pressure plate in the car are the same ones that I had just had installed with the tranny rebuild. The flywheel is a light weight 993.