[Lupin..the..3rd]

No, not P-car related. I'm installing a set of ARP head studs in my diesel VW. (It'll allow me to turn up the boost a bit more without worrying about the head gasket. I'm running 1.2 bar now... 1.4 bar here I come! )

These ARP studs are a work of art. The nut threads on with a smoothness I've never felt before in a fastener. I thought it was a lot of $$$ for some fastener hardware but now I see why.

Yes, I know the box says "Ford Cosworth / Sierra". ARP actually doesn't make a set for the VW TDI engine. After doing a bit of homework, this set is exactly the correct size, length, thread pitch, etc and others have used them in this application with great success.

My question to the dorki collective, is about the torque method that ARP recommends. They say to torque them to 60 lbs, then loosen. Repeat that five times, but torque to 80 lbs on the last time. What's the reason for this re-torquing each one five times? Seems a bit excessive, but what do I know. Any thoughts on why they would recommend such a procedure?

[APKhaos]

Originally Posted by Lupin..the..3rd

They say to torque them to 60 lbs, then loosen. Repeat that five times, but torque to 80 lbs on the last time. What's the reason for this re-torquing each one five times? Seems a bit excessive, but what do I know. Any thoughts on why they would recommend such a procedure?

They recommend it because it works. No really. The process stretches the studs compresses the head gasket, and ensures the correct final torque. They don't say this in the instructions, but meticulous engine builders will wait 30 minutes or so between torque and release. This lets everything settle, which is exactly what you want.

Yep, they are definitely car geek porn.

[}{arlequin]

nice george! fully loaded up they'll also make a fine weapon as long as you know how to swing your european carry-all.