[Rick Lee]

My roll bar is the weld/plate type and has three holes per plate. I am scared to take a drill to my car, if plates can be welded in locally for not too much money. Where can I get this done and about how much should it run me? Thanks.

[William Miller]

Why are you scared? What's the difference.? I've seen what welding does to the rust protection. It screws it up anyway.
What kind of bar?

[Rick Lee]

I don't know the brand of roll bar I got. I haven't even unpacked it yet. But it was a cheap, used Pelican deal and it had already been in an SC coupe. I just don't know if the bar's mounting points will fit flush against the body, or if I'd need to weld in base plates. I have no idea about this stuff and am starting to think about selling this one and getting one that bolts onto the existing seat belt hardware.

[VaSteve]

Originally Posted by Rick Lee

I don't know the brand of roll bar I got. I haven't even unpacked it yet. But it was a cheap, used Pelican deal and it had already been in an SC coupe. I just don't know if the bar's mounting points will fit flush against the body, or if I'd need to weld in base plates. I have no idea about this stuff and am starting to think about selling this one and getting one that bolts onto the existing seat belt hardware.

Rick,
Do you know if those roll bars that bolt into the seat belt hardware come with new bolts and what not? I put in my "targa body brace" this weekend and it did not come with new bolts. It makes for a bit of a tight fit.

[Vicegrip]

you can make weld in plates that are drilled and tapped. You weld in the plates and then bolt the bar to the plates. The bar should be made so the main hoop does not weld/bolt to the floor. A far better place is the angled foward but flat area to eash side of the rear seat area. This makes a far better setup than any bolt in bar that uses seat belt points. Regardless of how strong a bar is it will be hampered by the little seat belt bolts that are in single shear mounting.

Making new weld in plates and installing an existing bar that requires some refab or ajustment would run $300 to $400. Add $50 for hammer finish paint.

[Cire]

I have a welder and am a certified welder. Is the item you are welding in or out of the car? If its rusted it could be an issue as well.

Let me know if I can help.

Eric

[Trak Ratt]

What Kurt said but I would add that the seat back position in relation to the main and cross bar tubes is critical. I didn’t consider this on the SC and was VERY unhappy. Problem didn’t materialize until I tried driving with a helmet on. Finally worked it out with new seats and new mounting position. Thinking a head when I did the 356 bar produced a much more satisfactory install.

[Eli]

I' m with RL. Can anyone suggest a local shop that would be able to do this? Anyone here willing to take on the job?

[Rick Lee]

I got rid of the roll bar and used a harness bar. My new insurance company won't take me with a roll bar, so harness bar stays.

[VaSteve]

That's an odd stance to take. Laurel DE, right? Do they assume you're really interested in going 11/10s and deliberately rolling the car?