[Noah]

When I installed the EFI system in my car, I made a number of shortcuts, electrically speaking -- nothing barbaric or dangerous, but embarrassing nonetheless.

I'd like to pick up some high quality butt connectors, wire, and most importantly, a pin connector and fuse panel so that I can make everything look real purdy. Any places around here that have a nice selection of this stuff? There are indeed some mail order online places to get this stuff, but I'd like to find a local place because I'm not 100% sure yet what I'm going to need.

TIA. 8)

[Jazzbass]

I've looked but without much success. The best I could ever find is stuff from the chain stores (Pep Boytas/Advance/Home Depot). That stuff is hit-or-miss, but going to a couple I can usually end up with the right heat-shrink type connectors. Problem is, the stuff is usually overpriced and selection is not that good (when they run out of one type of connector, it takes a while to get it in). Other than that, I typically order stuff from DelCity.net.

Personally, in a metro area with 6+ million people, I have to beleive there is a good quality electronics supply store. Anyone know where it is?

[William Miller]

There used to be a good one in Rockville off of Parklawn Drive.
It was more of an electronics as opposed to electrical supply like Branch Electric.
Who knows if it's still there, I just hope to spark someone's memory!

Another option is to go to a boat supply store. Boat US in rockville (Now at Loehmans Plaza) and West Marine off 495 and 450. They usually carry a pretty good, but not great selection. I'm pretty sure they have fuse blocks and probably most of the stuff your looking for.

Another good source is strosniders hardware on Arlington Road in Bethesda. I was supprised at their selection of connectors. Ask someone when you go in, because the drawers I saw were not obvious.
Their not far from DC either.

[KeithLambert7]

Try an electrical supply store. Most of them carry Thomas & Betts or others.

I personally never rely on butt (crimp) connections on car electrical wiring - leads to too many gremlins and heartaches. I prefer to solder and heat shrink all wiring connections and terminals. Electrical supply stores sell butt, ring and fork connectors without the nylon or plastic sleeve, so they can be soldered. If don't solder, try to find the ones with the nylon jackets, they don't slide off the connector after you crimp them.

Keith

[Noah]

Originally Posted by KeithLambert7

I personally never rely on butt (crimp) connections on car electrical wiring - leads to too many gremlins and heartaches. I prefer to solder and heat shrink all wiring connections and terminals.

Ah, the great crimp vs. solder debate!

A friend of mine who is a professional electrical engineer once gave me the full Ph.D lecture on the subject, and his emphatic position is that soldered connections are far less reliable than properly crimped connections. He says that solder is brittle and will crack over time and help destroy the connection. I vividly remember him thundering (he's what you'd call a "loud talker"), "DO YOU THINK THERE'S A SINGLE SOLDERED CONNECTION ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE? WELL THERE'S NOT!"

I don't know much about wiring, so I take other people's advice; I do know how to properly crimp and heat shrink tube connections, and in the past 5 years of doing electrical work, have never had one fail. 8)

[William Miller]

So what's your technique?
I bet they have better terminals and better crimpers at NASA than the stuff you typically get at the hardware store.

I've always felt the week link is the plastic cover that comes with it. I like the bare ones and use shrink wrap most of the time. I still solder when I can.

There's also a shrink wrap that has a sealer in it. The fisrt time I used this was on the trim position sender on the outdrive on my boat. It cane from Mercury with the sender. That was good stuff and after several years in salt water, no problems yet!

[Noah]

I use high-quality bare butt connectors that are:

1. Properly sized for the wire I'm using;
2. Crimped firmly with the proper sized crimper for the size of connector;
3. Heat-shrink tubing sealed, and then sealed with a 3M product specially designed for sealing electrical connections.

The butt connectors with the hard plastic surrounding material are junk.

[KeithLambert7]

Originally Posted by Noah

Ah, the great crimp vs. solder debate!

"DO YOU THINK THERE'S A SINGLE SOLDERED CONNECTION ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE? WELL THERE'S NOT!"

Ok, I'll bite...Ask your engineer friend how they held the chips on those pesky printed circuit boards in the computers of that shuttle (crimps?) Nothing soldered?? Where did he graduate from? :P

A brittle solder connection is called a cold solder, and is no different than a brittle weld. Doesn't mean a weld or a solder connection cannot be strong when done properly...

Keith

[Jazzbass]

You know, I've heard the whole crimp vs solder thing and that crimped connections are better. I agree with Bill - the stuff automotive mfrs and NASA uses require a $200 crimp gun, not to $10 POS you get from advance. I personally solder, becuase I know how to solder well and I don't have the high quality connectors that I'd like. Personally, I think the solder connections are just fine, if you take your time and do it right.

[CrewChief]

I think the advocates of both methods are correct. Each side has said 'if done correctly'. Therein lies the rub.

I also usually solder because I don't have the high quality connectors and mostly the high quality crimp dies to do a quality crimp. And, I know how to solder well. That said, the solder connections do tend to have mechanical failure over time unless there is some kind of strain relief, because they are brittle at best. Many (most?) people also use too much heat wich causes even the copper to become brittle. Sometimes I intentionally use too much heat. Old crimp connections can develop high resitsance from corrosion. As an exigent fix I'll flow solder into the connection to improve the electrical properties; but mechanically it sucks.

When redoing harness' I use Delco weather pak or metri pak. I do have the proper dies for the GM Delco weather pak connectors. Those crimps are fine. I was surprised though that the official instructions direct soldering the connection after crimping. BUT, they intend only a SMALL solder joint that does not extend the full length of the crimp. If you can do that kind of soldering then its the best of both worlds.

One of these days I really should spring for a high quality crimp tool and dies and a lifetime supply of connectors. Probably a heat gun too. Using the soldering iron for heat shrink just isn't professional, no?

Back to the thread topic: Anyone know where I can get high temp wire in 10 ga to rebuild an alternator harness?