[targa911man]

I did the camber and toe-in on my front end tonight. Only took about an hour an a half using the method Charlie posted in the gallery. About 15 min of that was chipping gunk off the right shock mount. I did a 1/4" negative camber and a 1/8" toe-in on each wheel and centered the steering wheel. Anybody know what that gunk is so I can repace it? It looks like tree wound dressing. Right now I've duct-taped the space around the shock.
Test drive want fine. It seems like it would be pretty easy to do a toe-out and increase the negative camber for an autox or track day and change it back for street use.

[Jim Richards]

Dan, that alignment book that Charlie posted is great, isn't it?

[Charlie Stylianos]

Thanks go to RoninLB for those instructions. Who knows where he found that little book

[targa911man]

That book is great. I found that after loosening the lock nut I was able to adjust the tie rod length without jacking up the car. A little more on my test drive--I took a couple of sharp corners in the neighborhood a little fast and it felt real steady. Accelerated up a sweeping ramp onto the 234 bypass also very steady. No vibration until 80 on the straight, and then minimal, might have just been the road. I've heard you feel the road a little more with the turbo rods. Still, it was much less than I felt at 60 before the alignment. I dove the bypass because I drive it several times a week and am familiar with the way the car feels on it. Drove pretty hard until a couple blocks from home, and when I felt the front tires after parking they were about body temperature all the way across. I don't have one of those tire temp gauges but the lowering of temperature from before the alignment was obvious to the touch, particularly on the inside surface. By the way, you could probably tell from my first post that I used the "difference from plumb line" method for the camber. I bought one of those angle scales from Home Depot and fashioned a gauge to get a line off the rim, but it was so awkward trying to measure the angle with that method that I had no confidence that it was accurate. The plumb line method is a lot easier and you get a direct measurement from plumb which obviates all the math.