[Trak Ratt]

Looking to get a Fluid Evacuator. Any personal recommendations on what Mityvac is good for home shop? Would wont to use for trans, power steering, engine etc. not just brakes.

Mityvac has several here: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/literature_caf.asp

But open to other suggestions


MV7430 Mini Fluid Evacuator

Operates on compressed air to create a powerful venturi vacuum for quickly evacuating
small reservoirs. The lid unthreads for convenient emptying, and the evacuation hose is
perfect for getting into those hard-to-reach places.

Features:

• Compressed air operation
• Integrated 1.9 quart (1.8 liter) capacity
reservoir
• Variable control thumb throttle
• Swivel air inlet
• Quiet, muffled exhaust
• Automatic overflow prevention

Specifications:
Includes:

• Fluid evacuator
• 4 ft (1.2 m) fluid evacuation hose
• Molded base w/ screws for bench mounting
• Hanging hook
• User manual
(English/French/Spanish/German)

MV7430

Reservoir Capacity: 1.9 quarts (1.8 liters)
Working Pressure: 60 – 150 psi (4.1 – 10.3 bar)
Vacuum @ 90 psi (6.2 bar): 26 in. Hg (88 kPa)
Air Consumption
@ 90 psi (6.2 bar): 4.3 cfm (2.0 l/s)
Flow Rate: @ 60 psi (4.1 bar):50 oz/min (1460 ml/min)
@ 90 psi (6.2 bar):70 oz/min (2100 ml/min)
@ 150 psi (10.3 bar):70 oz/min (2100 ml/min)
Inlet Thread Size: ¼" NPT
Packaged Weight: 4.8 lbs (2.2 kg)
Size: 9" tall x 6.5" dia. (230 mm tall x 150 mm dia.)

MV7300 PneumatiVac

Operates on compressed air to create a powerful venturi vacuum for draining fluids
from tanks and reservoirs. Compressed air hose attaches at base for stability. Includes
accessories for draining engine oil or transmission fluid directly through the dipstick
tubes. Also includes brake/clutch bleeding kit (Model No. MVA7205) for vacuum
bleeding hydraulic brake and clutch systems.

Features:

• Operates on compressed air
• Integrated 2.3 gallon (8.8 liter) capacity
reservoir
• Large base with foot stabilizer
• Durable, chemical-resistant polyethylene
construction
• Independent air shut-off valve
• Quiet, muffled exhaust
• Automatic overflow prevention
• Quick-drain pour spout

Specifications:
Includes:

• Fluid evacuator
• 0.23" OD x 5' long
(5.7 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
• 0.26" OD x 5' long
(6.6 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
• 0.41" OD x 5' long (10 mm OD x 1.5 m
long) main evacuation tube
• Brake/clutch bleeding adapter kit
(Model No.MVA7205)
• Tube adapters
• User manual (English/French/Spanish)

MV7400 Fluid Evacuator

Vacuum is created quickly and efficiently by manual pump operation, offering superior
mobility by eliminating the need for electricity or compressed air. The MV7400 is ideal
for draining fluids from reservoirs on boats, RVs, ATVs, snowmobiles, farm equipment
or motorcycles. Includes accessories for draining engine oil or transmission fluid directly
through the dipstick tubes.

Features:

• Convenient manual pump operation
• Integrated 1.9 gallon (7.3 liter) capacity
reservoir
• Large base w/ foot stabilizer
• Durable, chemical-resistant polyethylene
construction
• Automatic overflow prevention
• Quick-drain pour spout

Specifications:
Includes:

• Fluid evacuator
• 0.23" OD x 5' long (5.7 mm OD x 1.5 m
long) dipstick tube
• 0.26" OD x 5' long (6.6 mm OD x 1.5 m
long) dipstick tube
• 0.41" OD x 5' long (10 mm OD x 1.5 m
long) main evacuation tube
• Tube adapters
• User manual (English/French/Spanish)
Reservoir Capacity: 1.9 gallons (7.3 liters)
Max. Operating
Temperature: 175°F (80°C)
Packaged Weight: 7.5 lbs (3.4 kg)
Size: 25" tall x 7.5" dia. (635 mm tall x 190 mm dia.)

MV7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus

At the push of a button, this versatile unit changes from vacuum to pressure for
evacuating or dispensing fluids. This functionality makes it ideal for draining tanks
or reservoirs then pumping the used fluid back out for easy disposal. Multiple units
work great—simply evacuate used fluids with one unit and then quickly refill with new
fluid from a second. For superior mobility, the MV7201 utilizes a manual pump, so
compressed air or electricity is not required. Accessories are included for draining
engine oil or transmission fluid directly through the dipstick tubes.

Features:

• Evacuates or dispenses at the push of
a button
• Convenient manual pump operation
• Integrated 2.3 gallon (8.8 liter) capacity
reservoir
• Large base with foot stabilizer
• Durable, chemical-resistant
polyethylene construction
• Automatic overflow prevention
• Quick-drain pour spout

Includes:

• Fluid evacuator/dispenser
• 0.23" OD x 5' long
(5.7 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
• 0.26" OD x 5' long
(6.6 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
• 0.41" OD x 5' long (10 mm OD x 1.5 m
long) main evacuation tube
• Tube adapters
• User manual (English/French/Spanish)

Specifications:

Reservoir Capacity: 2.3 gallons (8.8 liters)
Max. Operating
Temperature: 175°F (80°C)
Packaged Weight: 10.0 lbs (4.5 kg)
Size: 24" tall x 12.4" wide x 9.3" deep
(610 mm tall x 315 mm wide x 235 mm deep)

[HoodPin]

I have the MV7430. It works reasonably well. But when I tried to use it for a full brake system flush, I found the suction was sometimes creating misleading bubbles at/around the caliper bleed nipple. Works well to get the brake fluid pulled through the plumbing; you can attach at the caliper end, and let it suck (via the attached air hose) while you monitor/maintain the fluid level in the reservoir. But I would still finish up with a typical pressure induced bleeding (via Motive or brake pedal) to confirm that air is no longer in the system. Haven't used it for other fluids yet, as all I've worked on have had accessible drain plugs.

[cmartin]

I have the 7400. Works great but it's really too big for what I need. I use it for the boat and transmissions, neither requires the capacity of the 7400. This only matter as it wants to topple over at the worst times.

[Jazzbass]

Originally Posted by HoodPin

I found the suction was sometimes creating misleading bubbles at/around the caliper bleed nipple.

I've run into this with every vacuum-type bleeder I've used. The problem is that the it's sucking air from around the threads of the bleed screw and showing up as bubbles. The solution was always to seal the bleed screw threads with teflon tape. It's a PITA, which is why I like the Power Bleeder way better.

[jbailey930]

I've been using a Vacula for last 12 yrs. Works well with a compressor. Easy to clean. A little more $$ than mytyvac.

[Hunter]

I thought this was going to be a discussion of blondes vs. brunettes vs. redheads, damn.

[HoodPin]

Originally Posted by Hunter

I thought this was going to be a discussion of blondes vs. brunettes vs. redheads, damn.

It is! Vacula and MightyVac are just code.

[Vicegrip]

Best? pro grade Vacula. $700 or there abouts for the kit. Close thread.

Once you come back to earth and want the second best they are all about the same depending on what you are looking to do.

The little hand pump ones are OK if you have the rest of the stuff to go with it and don't mind a bit of fumbling around with hoses and little bottles of stuff dripping and the like. cheap take up little space when not in use.

The fat bike pump looking type are handy. they run $100 give or take you can pull a good stock of vacuum and then suck up whatever into the tank. they come two ways hand pump and hook to air and pull the vacuum. you can change the oil without getting undr the car too. Slip a long thin tube down the dip stick hole and slurp it into the tank.

[Trak Ratt]

Prolly should have said "best for about the cost of one 245-16 hoho

Funny how the price of tyres becomes a currency value

[Vicegrip]

...always has always will. my road bike was 1.5 sets of hohos the MTN was .8. much easer than real numbers and great code when the wife units are around.

I have mighty vac and Vacula pro kit if you wan to touchy feelly before forking out one or 3 tires worth. for brake rebuilds I am digging the Vacula. I hook it up on a bleeder pull a tank of vacuum and suck the brake circuit dry. Move to the other 3 corners then take everything apart with no drooling little fittings and the like. For a flush I run the Motive or the Vacula filler and vacuum the fluid in. Vacuum makes bubbles BIGGER and easer to pull out not smaller and harder to pull out and makes for a better pedal IMO. You can kill the vacuum at the end of the flush at each corner to stop any suction based bubbles and check for bubble free flow.

I pull suction on a flush until the fluid looks good, push the brake pedal one or two 1/2 strokes and move on. I don't pay much mind to the little tiny stream of champagne like vacuum related bubbles. The big glork, glork ones are the ones I look for.