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#1
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FYI
Costco has 5w30 and 10w30 for 9 bucks off per case the next 2 weeks. Their price is usually pretty good already ( 30 bucks a case or so ) Maximum 3 cases. Wish they'd carry 15w50
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Scott Bresnahan Purcellville Va. 2014 GTB1 World Champion 8 Time National DE champion 88 911 Cup 2021 GT4 13 Boxster S 1969 Saab Sonett 2013 Cayenne 2014 F150 Hurricane race trailer with A/C 05 Cup car 02 Koni 996 |
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#2
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Saw that too. But you know you aren't supposed to run the 50 weight in your car anymore? Ops, forgot yours is a race car so get rebuilt every hundred hours or so
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David I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk! Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson "That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go. CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done... Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending |
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#3
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Autozone has Valvoline VR1 dino and synthetic at 50% off now too.
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Vic '79 930 '06 Tony//Kart Krypton |
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#4
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Quote:
G. Oil & Fluids Removing the drain plug was easy but take care to properly insert the socket - the plug seems to be made of aluminum and you'll damage it easily if not careful. Drain the oil, taking care not to get scalded if it's still hot. (You may also want to wear latex gloves as used oil is carcinogenic.) Once the oil is drained (I waited until there was a steady drip rather than a flow as such), you're ready to remove the outer casing of the oil filter which is located just forward of the drain plug. Screw this off to reveal the filter and note that there will be plenty of oil in the casing as you pull it away. The filter itself can be pulled off either directly by pulling downwards or by twisting and pulling down. There are no threads or anything, just a phallic-like head that pushes into the filter's top. Replace the filter by pushing it up and over the knob and screw the old housing back on, with lightly lubricated o-ring (easier to get it on if it's slippery). Replace the drain plug and use the new washer. You're now ready to pour in the new oil. Several people have suggested mixing two different viscosities of Mobil 1. I believe Van Larson might have been the first to post on this and he was also the first to explain a 996 oil change in any detail. (Thanks, Van.) Pour in 4 qts of 5-30, followed by 4 qts 15-50. If you need to top off, add very slowly, more 15-50 but don't over-fill or you might have to drain the whole lot! Lower the car to normal, start her up, and immediately check the oil pressure, which should be right up at max. Also check for any warning lights. If there's a problem, something's leaking, you haven't put the lid on something properly, or you've somehow dramatically underfilled the car. Checking oil level means getting the car up to normal operating temperture. Take it out for a spin, periodically checking pressure, and when warmed up, stop, turn off the engine and check the dip-stick. It is not advisable to exceed the max mark on the stick and some have reported (Bill, actually) that excess oil can be a cause of oil leaks from the main bearing seal. Disposal of used oil is regulated by law in most places, so its best to find out where you can legally dump it. Most auto parts stores have free disposal tanks. Check out http://www.boxsey.com/ and under Projects you should find a section on changing oil. It's on a Boxster but is roughly the same. The oil change interval is a matter of up-bringing, religious conviction and/or happenstance. The recommended interval is either 10,000 miles or 15,000. To be honest, I can't remember which it is - you'll just have to look it up in your Service Guide or call the dealership. I personally change oil after 10,000 and will change regardless after a school/D.E. Some say changing the oil after the initial 3-5k helps get rid of new engine particles and other ware-in stuff. I did my first change at 5k, after a DE event. One good rule of thumb - it is probably worth changing the oil at least every year regardless of the mileage done. Other fluids: Well, ATE Super Blue (and other colors to help you gauge when you've swapped out the old stuff) for the brakes is liked by many. Its higher boiling point prevents fade during track time. There are other products that have even higher boiling points. Redline products are also liked by many and their WaterWetter fluid, which mixes in with your coolant, might just keep your temp under control if you've been running too hot.
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Scott Bresnahan Purcellville Va. 2014 GTB1 World Champion 8 Time National DE champion 88 911 Cup 2021 GT4 13 Boxster S 1969 Saab Sonett 2013 Cayenne 2014 F150 Hurricane race trailer with A/C 05 Cup car 02 Koni 996 |
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#5
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Ooh. I'm gonna have to "Get in the 'Zone." VR1 has teh ZZDP or ZDDP or ZZTop.
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Greg Rockville MD |
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#6
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Scott, this is what I was refering to.
Quote:
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David I hope to arrive to my death, late, in love, and a little drunk! Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand... Homer Simpson "That's what's keeping me out of F1.... Too much mental maturity...." N0tt0n Some cause happiness wherever they go; others whenever they go. CHAOS, PANIC, AND DISORDER my work here is done... Live without pretending, Love without depending, Listen without defending, Speak without offending |
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