[cmartin]

I tried to pull out on of the injectors in the SC today to test it and replace the seal. Watching Charlie pop one out of Doug's car in 2 seconds gave me false hope. I tried the easiest one and it would budge. I yanked on it pretty hard and nothing. I then went to the second easiest one and it didnt budge. I pulled harder bending the fuel line a little and the injector came out; along with the plastic sleave. I was able to unscrew the injector from the line, but still couldnt get the injector out of the sleave.

I plan to replace each injector seal when the motor comes out next week, but am a little miffed. How can I test the injectors with the motor out? Should I just pull them out and replace the seals when the motors out and then test them when everythings back together?

Thanks for any ideas

[Charlie Stylianos]

Chris,

Spray some penetrating lubricant around those injectors seals and wiggle to work the fluid around. Let them sit for a little while and try pulling again and repeat if necessary. Those seals are just stuck from being hard and dry.

Those sleaves should also come out so you can replace the o-ring around them as well.

No real way to test those injectors without a suitable pump that can produce ~30psi to open them up. If you can/want to rig something up, you are looking for a wide mist spray pattern and that each injector is 'flowing' the same amount of fuel. Best bet is to replace the seals while everything is out and test the injectors when back in the car and everything is hooked back up. With the engine back in the car and everything hooked back up, pull each injector out and place in a clear soda bottle. Turn the ignition to 'ON' and lift the CIS air sensor plate to get the injectors to spray. While they are spraying, inspect the pattern of each injector and see if the pattern is consistant with the others. Once the bottles are half full, pull them out (note which cylinder it came from) and sit them side by side. Each bottle should have the same amount of fuel (+/- a tad). If one os substantially less/more than the others, the injector is partially clogged of the fuel distributor needs adjusting on that port (note small allen key on each fuel distrib port).

[cmartin]

Thanks for the insight, that's what I figured. Considering my main issues with the car are due to apparent vacuum leaks I think I'm going to change my plans a little. Monday when I get home from SP I'm going to try to pull out each injector. If I break the platic piece so be it. Before I drop the engine I'd like to know if just replacing the injector seals will fix my problem. Also, with a hot start issue I want to make sure no injectors are leaking. Since I can only do this with the engine in the car (reasonably at least) it makes sense to do it before the engine comes out.

If I cant get the injectors out, or it doesnt fix the problem the motor comes out anyway. By the way, the manual says to use a certain loctite on the sleeves, did you put them in with anything?

Thanks again

Chris

[Charlie Stylianos]

By the way, the manual says to use a certain loctite on the sleeves, did you put them in with anything?

No, and they have stayed put since. We can chat more at SP if you want.

[cmartin]

Sounds good. See you then.

[markwemple]

They sell a tool to remove the injectors. Looks a little like a small, thin prybar. My '76s cam out w/o trouble. Lucky, I guess.

I checked mine for pattern by simply doing the old CIS bottle test. Place the pulled injector in a glass bottle w/enough room to see the pattern of the gas coming out. W/the car in the on postion, lift the injector plate. The CIS will spray and you can see the pattern. Will not let you know flow rate or anything but if the pattern is good, the injector is good. Works on all CIS cars.

[cmartin]

Thanks. I did that with the one injector I could get out, didnt want to disrupt the beast too much until after SP. I'm thinking about making a sort of slide hammer tool to get them out, shouldnt be too touch. If I thread a big but onto the injector I should be able to yank them out if I have enough leverage. Of course, since my hand are too fat and the engine bay is tight I might end up enlisting the 10 yr old next door.

[William Miller]

If you can find one get a spare metal injector line. Cut off all but the last 6-10" and wrap that arround a scewdriver used for leverage.
Charlie, The sleeves on my car are held into the intake runners with 3 dents made with a chisel or some other tool.
I did one and had to cut these off to get it out. I still have 5 to do and since my engines out..... nows the time.
I already have the sleeves and the o-rings. What did you end up using to seal the sleeves or hold them in place?
Thanks!

[matt de maria]

There is a little right angle bracket type tool for removing these. It iis about 1 inch wide; one leg of the tool has 2 fingers that slip around the injector housing. The other side is about 2 inches long with 2 long slots. The slots are for a screwdriver blade which you use for prying against the intake runner. KD and Snap-on make the tool. It is only a couple of bucks. Snap-on # is Bluepoint YA-8340.

[cmartin]

Can you tell us what you use to seal the injector sleeve? The manual lists a loctite I havent been able to find anywhere.

The sleeve is sealed to the intake runner with an o-ring. If you can't find that special Loctite, Curil-T will work as well its used as gasket and o-ring sealer. Its petroleum resistant as its the sealant thats used on the o-ring and gasket between the cam tower and chain box.