[Paul 951]

Wow, thanks for the great replies guys!
I appreciate all of the suggestions.
Lets see where to begin -
Kurt,
Yeah it could be a hundred things...I couldn't afford to do the whole project all at once, so I spaced out my purchases and work over a year. Kinda wish I could have made the mods one at a time, but the finances weren't there.

I have a fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail. It originally was set for roughly 30-32PSI (2bar). This was way too low (Vitesse told me to set it to 3- 3.5bar). I adjusted that and now my fuel pressure at the rail is roughly 40-50PSI.

I pulled the injectors and tested them by applying 12V to each, they all fire (they are brand new 55 lb/hr injectors.
I also checked the wiring on the injector harness to ensure a solid electrical pathway back to the DME. There was a problem here that I corrected. When finished I pinned out the connectors back to the DME. I have good continuity and no crosstalk across the injector harness.
I think the problem is more likely related to spark, or spark timing.
To that, I have triple checked my timing, it is spot on. My balance shaft alignment is also spot on, though I know that wouldnt affect starting.
My distributor doesn't have the capability to be clocked, it is stationary. Spark timing is controlled by the DME.
I have verified the plug wires are installed correctly, and I have verified that the rotor points to the #1 contact in the distro cap with the motor at TDC on cylinder 1. This is all correct.
I have some starter fluid, I was hesitant to try that but I will do so. I also am going to do a compression check. The headgasket is obviously new, so I don't think thats the problem. If I have compression problems I think they would be related to bad rings. I'm hopeful thats not the case.
There is a factory alarm system that I haven't touched. I have read some people bypass this, but I'm not sure what pins I would have to jumper to do so.

Michaelathome - The Ref and speed sensors have been scoped out and are providing what looks like the right signal on the oscilloscope. I think I mentioned earlier that the connectors for these sensors are shot, and I am seeing a good bit of AC interference on these lines. I am going to get some 3 pin indestructable molex connectors and re-pin these. Given what appears to be an intermittent spark problem (car ran once, now doesn't), and also given the fact that my tacho used to bounce occasionally (indicative of interference on speed sensor line), this might be my problem. Also considering how vital these two sensors are for starting, this is probably my best bet. Its the only thing that is obviously bad and in need of repair.

David,
My AFR was lean when I had the car running the first time. After I spoke with Vitesse, I raised my fuel pressure to the 3-3.5bar it needed to be. Vitesse says this should help alleviate the problem, at least enough to get it running. After it is running, fine tuning of the AFR is done through my computer.
Regarding Air leaks - this is definitely something I need to check. I was thinking of getting some PVC tubing, thread an adapter for th air compressor on it and try compressing the intake to listen for leaks.

Andy,
Wow, thanks for taking the time to write about your experience.
Regarding the intake air temp sensor - My MAF has an IAT on it. The wiring harness takes the pins from the IAT and the MAF and brings them both back to one connector that attaches to the factory AFM connector. The pins are correct back to the DME. As far as the engine block temp sensor goes, my EMS software shows a pretty much static 127 degrees farenheit, even when the car isn't running. This might be the minimum value, it was a question I had.
I actually had John at Vitesse test the DME and KLR in his car. He said the car fired right up with them.
See above re: fuel pressure. Generally once pressurized, the rail takes about a half an hour to depressurize itself. This seems fine to me. I tested the DME relay from the 951 in my 944. It fired right up. I also tested the ignition coil in this manner with good results.
The SMT6 EMS system comes with something called a shorting plug. This is installed on the end of the SMT6 harness (instead of plugging the harness into the SMT6). The point of the device is to effectively take the SMT6 out of the equation. With the shorting plug, the car operates as though no SMT6 is there, the DME functions normally. The car should start with the SMT6 or the shorting plug. It doesn't start with either, so I'm thinking thats not part of the problem. I've pinned out all of the connections from the SMT6 to the DME, all are correct and I don't have any crosstalk or shorts.

I wouldn't have any idea about fuel enrichment programs, but I assume since the dme and klr fired Vitesse's car, thats okay.
One thing I noticed last night in a last ditch attempt at getting it running for Hershey - my Knock sensor harness looks pretty bad. Practically every connector in the car was bad after 18 years of heat.
The knock harness needs to be repaired, undoubtedly, but could that cause a no-start? I would need to pull the intake to repair it.

Again, I appreciate all of the suggestions. If you read this and think of something else that I may have missed, please let me know.
Otherwise, my action items are to repair the wiring harnesses for the Speed and Ref sensors and knock sensors, to do a compression check, and to pressurize my intake to check for intake tract leaks.

Does anyone have a leakdown tester that could be loaned out?

Thanks again to anyone who offers any help, guidance or liquor.

Paul