With the front all apart, it’s now time to tear apart the rear. First remove the bolts holding the spring plate cover to the spring plate.
Next remove the bolts that hold the spring plate to the trailing arms.
With all the bolts removed, yank the spring plate off!
With the spring plate removed you can now access the rear torsion bars. To take them out you need to remove the circle cover under the rocker panel to pull the t-bars out.
MMM……eye candy of the new suspension components that will go back in. This pic is Chris’s setup, mine is the same setup except for stiffer t-bars in the rear. I went with 22mm fronts and 30mm in the rear. Also the poly bronze bushings are nice, except for the install. Chris, you said these should just plop right in, ha yeah right. As I said earlier nothing is that easy for me!
Putting the suspension together is the reverse of removal. Just keep track of what bolt goes where. Installation will require another set of hands, otherwise it is an asspain. Fortunately I have a great cuzo who is always down to get his hands dirty with me! SCWDP back up was in full effect, thanks Charlie! You are
the illest brother 
. I also want to thank my cute little helper in the garage, Karma. I can always count on her to sniff something or knock something over, what a brute!
After trying to push new the front bushings in by hand and getting nowhere, we figured its time for some more violence. We even lubed the bushings up with grease, 2 of the 4 bushings went in smoothly. The other two, well, the pictures speak for themselves. After going through two 2x4’s, we determined there has to be a better way. So I gave up, took them to a local machine shop that pressed them in for me for free.
After putting the suspension back in with the new t-bars, it’s time to fine tune some things. This means re-indexing the front and rear t- bars, what this means is after the t-bars are in the car, pull them out and move them over one notch/spline. Eventually you will be able to get both the fronts and rears indexed to the point where the ride height from the ground to the fender will be even on both sides. You can eyeball the fronts, however for the rears you will need to use an angle finder. I got mine from Harbor Freight. Using this link you can calculate the angle degree based on the weight of your 911.
http://www.rennlight.com/cgi-bin/spring.cgi
All I can say is I love the new suspension, what a day/night difference. Also no more suspicious noises are coming from the front end.
Ted, Vu, you guys think you’re low! HA!
After setting the rear angle’s I took my SC to Matt DeMaria, where it is currently undergoing an alignment. I sleep better at night knowing she’s in good hands. Matt is a Porsche technical guru and a stand up guy!
Of course not being able to drive my 911 for a month, I was fiending for some redline action
. Noah came up to G’burg to help me with a clutch cable replacement and to shoot the sheeit. He was kind enough to bring the silver shark aka ’77 Carrera 3.0L MFI’ed out, and give me a ride! All I can say is that I had wood the whole time listening to that monstrous motor
. I secretly inducted Noah into SCWDP, whether he likes it or not
. So now it’s time to shame the later 911’s. Any 996’s/993’s/964’s want to challenge a lightweight 3.0L? My money is on Noah’s ride.
Anyhow all is quiet in Ghettofab Motorwerks for now, stay tuned for more updates in this thread on wheel bearings and shocks. Of course I’m no authority when it comes to wrenching on my 911, so you veteran Porschephiles please feel free to add comments or any instructions on updating the suspension that I may have missed. Sorry for the long winded post, I was just trying to pass along some useful information that I have learned from other Dorki’s primarily my brother Mr. Stylianos. Hopefully other 911 owners will find it easier to get a stiffer or smoother ride!