| Vicegrip |
05-23-2005 04:33 PM |
You would need a cooler and pump that could stand brake line pressure and the line loop would be much bigger adding "softness" to the brake system unless the master was redesigned.
How about a water jacket on the binders? You could solder or braze 1/4 inch copper tubing onto the outside surface of a stock iron caliper and run water through the tubing. Water in and out flex lines that follow the existing brake fluid hose. Done and no messing with the existing system. Down side is some added sprung weight but it will save you from going to a bigger brake system. Many ways to use water to cool a caliper. The first to come to mind is evaporative flash cooling. No loop, no pumps and very light and simple. Just have a check valve and let the water flash to steam in the lines on the caliper. It would work like a Mr. Coffee. The check valve would let water in and as it flashed to steam and cooled more would flow as the existing was depleted. Use distilled water to prevent any buildup. The output of steam would vent under the car and mix with under car air so you would not see steam coming out of the brakes.
Another variant of the same system would to have a bimetal valve thermostat on the caliper to let water in as needed.
Another method that is more conventional. Use the above loop system but loop it to a pump and cooler to strip the heat from it. Let it flash in the caliper but contain and condense it.
The next is to build a pressurized tank with a digital timer and control valve system that looped distilled or RO water around the caliper and then misted it into the inner vent holes of the rotor. It would flash into steam or super heated vapor pulling tremendous amounts of heat from both the binder and rotor. With the cooling effect of change of state I bet you could run 1/2 size brakes and require no drag inducing air scoops in the front. You can drop the caliper cooling and just spray directly into the inner rotor vents. Almost no added sprung weight, no reliance on air ducting that gets kinked, torn off or shovels road crap into the rotors. Have the control timer note the braking cycle time and have it keep the sprayer on for a % or multiple % of the time the brakes were on. Coming out of T1 the system might be on for 20 seconds. 5 seconds of brake time and 5X3 of recool or pull down. Or add IR sensors that can see a front rotor and let it control the cooling cycle. I am working on and will be adding the non IR controlled system to my next car. If it works well I will add the IR control loop.
I have already sourced the needed materials for both systems. Under $100 total for the non IR setup ;)
(And No, the brakes won’t get wet)
|
