Carrera Chain Tensioner Upgrade
 

Just completed a Carrera chain tensioner upgrade on a friends 914-6's new engine. One of the things I notice which might make this an easier and less stressful undertaking would be to simply place the engine at top dead center before beginning. This would take all the pressure off the valves, which in turn would ensure the maximum amount of slack in the chains, making the installation of the new tensioners much easier. It would also eliminate having any bystanders/ owners from panicking when they see the cam gear turn! 101 Projects also recommends doing this, but it also says you have to take out the distributer, which is not necessary when the engine is on an engine stand.

The new motor is a 2.2L E engine with webers. Should be a nice upgrade to another wise stock 2L 914-6.

can you install the oil line that goes around/about the distributor without removing the dist? if i recall, there is a flare/compression fitting in that area.

Turning the crank to TDC does not take all the pressure off of all the valves. It will only relieve pressure for the valves of the cylinder that is aligned to TDC. There will be one valve under load for each of the other two cylinders (for that one camshaft). There is still a risk of the cam moving .
Theoretically you don't have to move the distributor; and on a few engines I have been lucky. But most of the time the compression nut is frozen to the steel fitting. Two wrenches are needed to free it (backwrenching one with respect to the other). Sometimes you can get lucky with flare-wrench crowfoot wrenches and angle wrenches but most of the time the particular orientation of the flats of the fastener won't allow the tools behind the distributor.

Before anybody gets really scared about doing this upgrade, some movement of the cams is normal & should be expected. The real issue is having the chain “jump a tooth” on the cam gear. It’s not unheard of but a little care will forestall any serious drama! If you don’t want to let the chain slacken while you fumble w/the new adjuster, just use a piece of “universal car repair wire” (wire coat hanger) you have in your tool box to hock it to a cover stud. Don’t forget to turn the engine over at least 2 times just to make sure everything clears.

When I did the upgrade I used a wooden wedge between the cam chain and the outside lip of the chain housing. The cams can't move then. you can slacken the chain and not worry about the cam jumping time.

it was very simple to do.
YMMV