Bilstein Shock Confusion
 

Help me!

I recieved a large order of suspension parts several weeks ago.
One of the strut inserts had a small dent and scrape in it.
I called the supplier and they quickly sent a replacement with a return label for shipping the damaged shock back.


When I recieved the replacement The first thing I noticed was that the box it came in was different than the first set. It was corrigated cardboard not the thin cardboard in the other 2 boxes. This box had also been opened before and taped back up. (My guess is they double checked to make sure the new one was not dammaged before they shipped it.) Second thing I noticed was that it was yellow and not green.
It did have a green dust cover on the top.

Last the number on the insert itself was a little different.
This morning I noticed that there was a tool that came with the replacement shock that is used to tighten up the ring where the insert goes into the Boge strut.

Here are the 2 part numbers:
Green set: F4-P36-0113-H0
Yellow replacement: F4-P36-0113-H003

I called the supplier and his excuse was that they were from different lots and only the color was different. "Bilstien does that all the time"

I really don't care about the color if he is right.
I looked on Bilstien's site and it appears that the numbering is completely different. Several other suppliers sites give little or no info on the Manf part number. I did see a different part number on the vertex site for the Heavy Duty shocks.

I can't help but speculate that there must be some reason for the color change and the extra 2 digits "03" on the replacement shock.

Does anyone know more about this than me?
I didn't post on PP because of course they are more expensive and I didn't buy from them.

The Bilstein HD struts I purchased last spring were yellow, as were the Sport rear shocks. I wouldn't be surprised that the "03" is just a product revision corresonding to the color change.

Thanks Jim, that's one vote to keep the replacement.
Maybe this should have been a poll?

Bill:

Eliminate the middleman's supposition (supplier), call the manufacturer. You'll find most are receptive and helpful (bilstein, Koni, Boge-sachs, Fox, Moton, etc...).

Bilstein EAST: 1-704-663-7563
EASTERN AFTERMAKET & MOTORSPORTS
293 Timber Road
Mooresville, NC. 28115-7868

Jase

Thanks!
I called and they confirmed that it was most likely just a packaging thing.

Jase, you da man with the contacts!

OK, so now which side get's the green and which side get's the yellow?

Anyway, one came with the cool little spanner tool. It's a flat piece of steel woth a hole in it a 2 tits to fit into the slots on the big nut that holds the insert down in the strut. It has a square hole in the edge for a 3/8" torque wrench. It has a torque setting stamped on it too.
Do you usually get this with the inserts? I have it if anyone want's to barrow it!

Jase, while yourlooking at the above, do you have a picture / link to a picture of the rear sway bar mount reinforcing you mentioned before.
I might as well do this while I'm screwing arround with the welder.

If they were red and green you could do a Port/Starboard theme. :D

I found that tool sucked for snugging down the big nut. They loosened up on me and made it appear like I had bearing play (which I didn't have!) when I tried to get my car teched for DE. Marc A and I resorted to a serious tool (BF pipe wrench) to snug them right. :shock:

Good thought on the colors,but I got the red ones on the back!
I used the BF pipe wrench to get the nuts off.
Nothing like the old reliable!
Too bad, It looks like it should be able to handle the torque. Maybe it just needed to be tighter. Oh well.

OK due to jase wipping me about not installing the big sway bars (22/20) without upgrading My T bars, I'm now shopping.

22F and 28Rear? Jase does that sound right for my SC Cab no A/C?
What are my options?
Since weight reduction is not really my big thing I don't really see the spending more for hollow bars.
So what's your recommendation for solid bars.

I think the only right way is to do it by track. Figure out at each track
event whether there are more left or right handed turns. Then select
the appropriate color (whichever that is - I have no idea), jack up
the car and swap'em in the paddock. Cool thing is if when checking
tire temps you discover the bias is opposite of what you thought, you
just jack up the car and swap the shocks! 8)





:wink: