Throttle adjustment
 

Bill, thanks for helping me diagnose my throttle problem this Saturday morning. Your SC cab is fast :shock:, looks like you did a great job rebuilding that motor. Not to mention your workshop had me drooling!
So Dorki's, it appears that I am not getting anywhere near full throttle :evil:. I guess I am going to try to tackle this problem tomorrow. Bill explained to me that I need to remove the heating stuff to get in there and adjust the throttle linkages with a wrech, which will free up the cable to the pedal and allow full throttle extension. I also need to be careful when removing the clips. Is it as simple as this, or am I forgetting something?

The process you describe is relatively easy but (there always seems to be one of these hanging around) there are several other adjustments for throttle action. Until you understand the entire process I would caution making any more than minor adjustments on only one. Other wise you may be moving away from where you want to be. For instance there is a “barrel” fitting that attaches the pedal cable to a threaded rod that goes to a bell crank on the transmission. There is also a threaded adjuster for pedal movement on the floorboard. If you are unsure of what you are doing, don’t have access to lift or floor jack, jack stands & manual it might be better to wait for the “Lifts for Charities” next weekend. There will be plenty of folks there to help, or at least advise.

Thanks Dave, I knew there was something involving the transmission area that needed to be adjusted too. I guess I will wait until next Saturday, and adjust it when my SC is on the lift, it'll probably be easier that way.
BTW, I was also thinking of buying new rear rotors and brake pads for the lifts for charities event. I saw some zimmerman cross drilled ones on ebay,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564
Are the cross drilled rotors worth it, and is zimmerman a good brand?

Cross-drilled on a streetcar are bragging rights only. About $80 a peace is a good price. IMO slotted are better for the track, less stress areas. > $$ though. Drilled on back regular on front??

Pari,
I agree with David regarding cross drilled rotors and track use. I can name three people who have had problems with Zimmerman rotors cracking with track use, including myself. For street only use I'm sure they'd be fine. They do look good behind the wheels though.

Ted

Yup,since the fronts are slotted, I guess that is a dumb idea to change the rears to cross drilled. I replaced the front rotors and pads about 3 months ago. So looks like I'm going to order slotted rotors for the rear. New brake hoses too?? Oh jeez, looks like I'm starting to see that slippery slope. Thanks again Dave for all the advice.

Thanks Ted, if they are more succeptible to cracking than fuggetabouit! So what did you do when your rotors cracked?
Although you are right they do look cool :twisted:. BTW Ted, I am going to pick up those door pockets tomorrow, let me know when you want to meet up to check them out.

Pari,
I am not an expert on this but drilled rotors are prone to crack. Get a couple of cracks together and you have broken disk. Better to buy Porsche parts, (yes I know you will have to mortgage the house) but their holes are forged into the rotor, and even those crack sometimes. Better to stay stock. SC brakes are good and I doubt you will ever drive in a speed/performance area where slotted and drilled would pay. As somebody said, you will have bragging rights. Go out and get a ticket for doing 100mph on 270 and your bragging rights will be better, true, and less expensive.

Stay away from the cross drilled rotors. This is more than just the usual BBS folklore advice - there were quite a few of us marveling at the massive cracks in both of APKhaos' front rotors - back when he was a 911 owner, that is. These weren't little stress cracks on the outside of the holes; the whole rotor was cracked from hub to rim.

I agree with avoiding the Zimmerman (OEM supplier) aftermarket cross-drilled rotors. I've seen Tony's and Ted's adventures with them. However, 930 brake upgrades (using OEM cross-drilled rotors) last a REALLY long time should you ever decide to go that route. Of course, this is comparing apples to oranges :D

Jase