Guidance needed - Torque specs for drop links?
 

Replacing my drop links on the cayman this weekend and need a little help. What is the torque spec for the top drop link mount? The torque specs for where the drop link attaches to the sway bar is 37 ft/lbs., but I can't find the recommended setting for the top mount.

Tarett drop links. <Adjustable GT3 front and Tarett rear bars>

Thanks for any help. :D

JVH

At least on the 981, the shop manual shows the same for the both ends of the drop links, 37ft lbs.

This is for the 987:

Tightening torques for front anti-roll bar:
Anti-roll bar to cross member/side members M10x60 - 48 ftlbs
Suspension/stabilizer to anti-roll bar M10 - 3 stage - 37ftlbs - loosen 90 degrees - 48 ftlbs
Suspension/stabilizer to shock absorber pipe/wheel carrier M12x1.5 - 63 ftlbs

From the Katalog, it looks like the drop link to suspension is the M12x1.5 lock nut.

Tightening torques for rear stabilizer:
Stabilizer to side section M8 - 17 ftlbs
Suspension/stabilizer to stabilizer (collar nut M10) - 3 stage - 37 ftlbs - loosen 90 degrees - 48 ftlbs
Suspension/stabilizer to spring strut/wheel carrier (M12x1.5) - 63 ftlbs

From the catalog, this one appears to be the M10 hex nut. But the terminology seems a bit...impenetrable? The nut that is labeled in the Katalog for the rear for link-to-bar is an M12 lock nut...but on the front, the link-to-bar nut is labeled an M10. The link-to-suspension nuts are the opposite front to back.

So...I recommend you figure out which nut was in that location on the original hardware, and torque appropriately...

ed

Jonathan,

What Ed said. The top mount of the drop link is actually what clamps the shocks to the wheel carrier hence the higher torque value.

Since you mentioned Tarett, this assumes the regular (short) links on the front that like a high-end version of the OE ones you will be taking off. Install them just like the OE ones.

If you purchased the long front drop links (has a collar that threads on to the shock and a much longer drop link) then I recommend you call Tarett. They are great to deal with and will walk you through the differences.

Not wanting to assume what else you know about installing drop links there are a few internet references on how to ensure there is no pre-load of the bars and that they are not hitting anything.

Good luck!

Thanks guys. Very helpful. Surprised by the difference front and rear, so good thing I asked the question. Initially torqued to 37 ft/lbs. all around, but car is still up in the air, so I can finish it off this week.

Yes, these are just the short "regular" links, not the ones that attach to the shock threads itself.

And yes, plenty of reading done on the pre-load issues and a few emails to dorki friends. Through a combination of homebuilt wooden ramps, jack stands and jacks I think I avoided those issues. If I end up in the trap at SP though, I will know I got it wrong.

Always blame the car. It's never the drivers fault. ;)

Wow you guys are really exacting with your work...

Pretty much the only thing I use a torque wrench on are lug nuts, engine bolts, and CV bolts.

Same here. :)

I replaced the OEM 3-stage-torque sway bar nuts with regular nuts & lock washers to avoid doing that dance. Can't imagine 3-stage-torq'ing to do a bar adjustment.

I torque all of the associated suspension components & driveline components. Putting yourself at risk or a DNF for a race isn't cool.

Look underneath the black (and-no-longer-green) 911, and you'll see the torque specs written next to just about every bolt including suspension and mounting hardware. Checked before EVERY race. Not worried about a DNF, either, but rather a bad crash due to failure. The only important part I don't torque is the lower brake caliper bolt--due to location I can't get a torque wrench on it (but as I write this perhaps I'll try a 19mm crow's foot).