Cayman S (987.1) HPDE Season Prep
 

Now that work on my Boxster is complete, the garage is available to work on the Cayman again. I registered for the VIR Zone 2 event in mid-March and I would like to make it, but first I have a list of repairs that need to be addressed before the start of the DE season. Some of the big items are:

1. Rebuild JRZ shocks
2. Remove transmission to track down an oil leak (RMS and IMS seal to be replaced)
3. Rebuild drive axles
4. Rebuild brake calipers
5. Rebuild front Giro rotors

Today I spent some time cleaning the garage and setting up the car on jack stands. I had some extra time to work, so I decided to pull the front shocks, which is an easier job than pulling the rears.

This is the starting point on the driver's side front. Sorry for the bad photo.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstmvefobq.jpg

This Giro rotor is about done. The cracks have been getting larger over the past couple events. It's definitely time for a new set.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psh9cct0ji.jpg

The brake pads were not exactly new either. I've been running RS29s.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps90nrm7fy.jpg

After removing the brake rotor and caliper, I pulled the shock out. My approach is to remove the sway bar end link at the shock body (top of link) and to remove (or at least loosen - if dealing with coilovers; remove completely if dealing with stock shocks) the lower control arm bolt at the front subframe end. With those two undone, you can then proceed to remove the three nuts that hold the shock mount in place at the tower. Actually - on the driver's side only, don't forget to disconnect the Litronics sensor bracket. On both sides it's also best to remove the two torx screws that secure the underbody shield to the front subframe left and right of the lower control arm. This will allow the underbody shield to bend down with the lower control arm without breaking. I would suggest supporting the lower control arm with a floor jack from the bottom, as the whole suspension wants to fall down once the shock mount is separated from the shock tower. After all this is done, the wheel well looks like this:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscvtkmvxf.jpg

And here is all the hardware.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...pso4zigrlk.jpg

I then repeated the process on the passenger side. I'll probably deal with the rears tomorrow if time allows.

Yesterday I was able to tackle some of the work on the rear. I started by removing the axle nuts, which is a bit of a PITA.

Nuts in place.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psixvxivni.jpg

Breaker bar with 32mm socket in place. I was worried that it wouldn't clear the wheel studs, but I actually did. Whew.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psiry80mw0.jpg

Nut removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgvw2nkib.jpg

I then removed some of the plastic wheel lining. Passenger side view.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbm20it2t.jpg

Ready to drop the support plate and diagonal braces. Apparently Martin was doing the same exact thing on his car too. Probably at the same time. Nicely synchronized sir!

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psntqe2tq0.jpg

Plate and braces removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psh2uaxibv.jpg

I then moved on to separating the axles from the transmission. Each side is held in place by 6 x 8mm allen head bolts. Axles free.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdzvb2fu2.jpg

Disconnecting the rear sway bar at the end links allows the axles to drop down further.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb3d6me9j.jpg

Then, use a hammer to tap them out of the wheel carrier and you're done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaetxkad0.jpg

I only worked for about an hour and a half, so I didn't get to remove the rear shocks, but that should follow shortly.

Check the rear thrust arms for play. If they have even a tiny bit of play the car will be loose no matter how good everything else is. If a car has more than 3 track seasons on the arms with sticky tires we just replace them.

Will do. I should probably get new ones then. Thanks for the tip!

uh, on the brake parts pic, do i see noise dampeners...? you still had those in there??? :p

I didn't for a long time, but kept destroying the dust boots. They would be burnt to a crisp in a couple events or so. I then decided to put the "noise dampeners" back in and they have helped keep the heat away from the caliper a tiny bit better. Many use titanium shims. The brake feel is a little better without them, but for now I have no choice.

Racing Brake sells a caliper rebuild/upgrade kit that includes new, SS pistons, which are designed differently and no longer require any heat shims. Here's a link: http://www.racingbrake.com/Save-10-o.../bp-404bsp.htm

yep, i'm already all over that page/product. this weekend i'm slated to help/watch another trakkie do his brakes so at least i get some practice before doing mine. i plan on placing a racingbrake order soon after.

I use Ti shims and PFC08s and have never had so much as a squeak.


Have had fire shoot out the wheels, though.... ;)

If you don't have fire you're not really trying!

True story.