How do you evaluate the Fuel Injector?
 

While waiting for my left-handed drill bits to remove the broken pilot bearing bolt, I started cleaning the '82 911SC's fuel injectors. I am getting the same spray pattern results on cylinders 1 and 3, than on #2. I am wondering if there is problem with #1 and #3. I am also wondering if I must replace the cracked cylinder 1 injector sleeve (picture attached). I looked in Bentley's and it isn't clear how how I would remove the sleeve.

Here is the data: #2 sometimes has a very slight drip around 46 psi, and then begins a beautiful spray pattern around 51 psi. The pattern remains good, even if I raise the psi to over 60psi.

On #1 and #3 - even after cleaning have the following results:
A) No drip even after 45 psi
B) Around 49-50psi - it begins a single stream "piss" of fluid
C) Around 52 psi - I get a good spray pattern
D) Around 60 psi - the pattern changes and blasts fluid out

I like the way that #2 behaves - should I expect that for all of the injectors? The injectors only have around 30K miles on them. I replaced all of them around 2002.

Here is a description of my set-up
I bought an OTC fuel injector cleaner on Amazon, and used the CIS compression fittings from the fuel pressure kit I bought on eBay. I have a brew of 50% SeaFoam and 50% gas.

I use the Bosch fuel injection steps for testing & cleaning - check for any leaks at 22psi.
Slowly raise the psi to see and record when the injector 1st opens
Add a few more psi to see when I get a nice spray pattern
Clean the injector by sending bursts of pressure through the injector
Lower psi until injector closes and then raise the psi to 7psi below the measured opening psi to see if there is a leak. (So far none of the 3 I have tested have leaked.)

Pictures of the set-up; the spray & the cracked port are attached.

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Attachment 30249

Attachment 30250

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It's hard and dangerous to remove the sleeve in place. I'd remove the runner and pop it out from the far side. Since 1 is bad I'd do all 6. They aren't that expensive and an overlooked item on cis cars.

See the 3 'stakes' over the top of the sleeve? Those hold it in. If you use a little punch/screwdriver tip you can tap them back and pull it out. You DO risk cracking them and dropping it into the intake. It might be good to stuff something like a paper towel ball on a string down in the hole first in case it breaks and chips fall down into the intake. Though I think any small bits of plastic would probably pass though the engine ok, why take the chance.

If you want to try to pull it out, check with a local hospital's GI division - they probably have an outdated balloon catheter they'll be throwing away (used for pulling back gallstones - relatively tough plastic as opposed to rubber or similar), or you could use Foley catheter (much less robust, though) to put through the opening, inflate, and pull back to touch the far end of the opening.

I think I'll live with the possible leak
 

All of the solutions are more challenging than I'd like to try. The #4 cylinder has the same problem. If I put some epoxy to seal the crack - would that be acceptable, or should I just live with the hairline crack?

This mmakes no sense at all!!! It's not more challenging than chasing air leaks for the next month! Course it will give you a chance to run up your posting totals :roll: Motor is out. Still waiting on parts. Take the time now and do it right.

Or you can use a couple hook tools, or crochet needles spaced @ 180-degrees and wiggle it out. I've done this with engine in car...no drama.

http://woodturninglearn.net/articles...l_figure_7.jpg

I agree, since engine is out, take off the runners and do it right/safe. You can also refresh any needed CIS gaskets/o-rings. If you decide to attempt with CIS intact, make sure intake valve is closed on that cylinder. If it decides to disintegrate and fall into the runner, rig up an attachment for the shop-vac and suck it out.

Take lots of pics of the hose clamps on your CIS! They have to be reinstalled the same way or they won't fit right and you'll have leaks!!

OK - so it was easier than it looked... - more questions
 

I'll admit - it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Next questions before I explain how I did the work:
1) What sealant if any should I use on the intake gasket?
2) What torque on the 12mm nuts? (Picture attached)
3) Anything special on reinserting the sleeves - other than soaking the o-ring in fuel for 2-3 minutes?
4) Any value in cleaning the intake rail while I have it off? Lots of carbon build-up inside.

Now, here is what I did:
I took off the intake rail on #1 cylinder and popped out the injector sleeve. On #6 cylinder, I tried a variation of Charlie's knitting needles. I cut up a clothes hangar and bent the ends. See the picture.

Finally, someone captured a picture of me shortly after I over-torqued the pilot bearing bolt (courtesy of the Android zombie-app).

Seriously, do you have a repair manual? Not sure why you need someone else look up torque requiements!
Why wouldn't want to clean the intake runners and air box while everything is off. Just soak everything in cleaner over night…
Then pull something like a nylon scrubber through them.
Make sure the runners are seated squarely on the engine or you can snap one of the tabs off tightening the nuts.

I see you still haven't worked out the whole personal grooming thing yet :p