Is the Pelican Clutch Rebuild Kit Overkill?
 

I appreciate the feedback I got on my last clutch questions. A few more questions. The Bentley's writes about asbestos fibers. Is that still an issue if the original clutch had been replaced at 99K miles?

Next, as I prep to do the clutch, I was wondering how much really needs or should be replaced. Pelican sells the '82SC clutch rebuild kit for $1105. I can buy the parts individually for the same overall price. Can you offer some more advice on whether I need or should replace all of the items in the kit? Is it really necessary to replace items like:
- clutch cable
- Clutch arm help spring
- flywheel pilot bearing
- throw-out bearing clutch release fork

The kit includes the following items:
930-102-042-00-M157
Flywheel Pilot Bearing w/housing, 911 (1980-86), 911 Turbo (1979-88) from eng# 689 0505 (49 state) or 689 1232 (calif) Brand: Rauch & Spiegel
1 $35.00

930-116-617-00-OEM Helper Spring Spacers, 911 (1978-86)
1 $3.25

930-423-401-05-M74
Clutch Cable (w/hooked end), 911 (1977-86), 911 Turbo (1978-88) Brand: Gemo
1 $75.50

900-027-015-03-OEM
B8 Lock Washer
9 $0.75

900-036-016-02-OEM
Assembly Lower Cover, 911 (1978-86)
1 $4.00

900-067-090-02-M260
Pressure Plate Bolt (sold per each, 9 required), 911 (1972-86) Brand: O.E.M.
9 $2.00

900-095-050-00-OEM
Throw-Out Bearing Release Fork Roll Pin, 911/911 Turbo (1972-88)
1 $1.50

900-234-502-01-OEM
Helper Spring Washer, 911 (1978-86)
1 $2.00

999-701-209-40-OEM
Helper Spring Upper O-Ring, 7.3x2.4mm, 911 (1978-86)
1 $2.25

999-701-359-40-M30
O-ring, 40x1.5, for 915 throwout guide tube, and late 914 shift shaft housing. Brand: Elring Klinger
1 $1.50

N012-408-2-OEM
Helper Spring Upper Circlip, 911 (1978-86)
1 $1.00

N-012-418-1-OEM
Throw-Out Lever Shaft Lower Circlip, 911 (1974-86), 911 Turbo (1976-88)
1 $1.00

915-116-001-27-M38
Clutch Pressure Plate, Cast Iron, 225 mm, 911 (1972-86), 924 turbo Brand: Sachs
1 $306.25

915-116-011-22-M38
Spring-Center Clutch Disc, 225 mm
Brand: Sachs
1 $221.50

915-116-064-01-M260
Clutch Arm Helper Spring, 911 (1978-86) Brand: O.E.M.
1 $81.75

915-116-082-80-M38
Throw Out Bearing, 911 (1972-86)
Brand: Sachs
1 $167.50

915-301-139-00-M30
Throw-Out Lever Seal (sold per each), 911 (1972-77, 1 req.), 911 (1976-77, 3 req.), 911 Turbo (1976-77, 2 req.) Brand: Elring Klinger
3 $2.50

PEL-TOL-CA2
Clutch Alignment Tool, (Spline count = 20; Pilot diameter = 14.9 mm; Spline diameter = 22.2 mm)
1 $8.85

915-116-614-02-M260
Backlash Spring, 911/911 Turbo (1977-86) Brand: O.E.M.
1 $9.00

915-116-712-01
Throw-Out Bearing Clutch Release Fork
1 $112.50

930-102-206-00-M58
Flywheel Bolt, Crankshaft to Flywheel (sold per each) Brand: O.E.M.
9 $2.00

999-113-426-41-M204
Flywheel Seal, 924S/944/968 All, 911/911 Turbo (1978-89), 996 Turbo (2001-03) Brand: Kaco
1 $20.50

Thanks again.

See above. don't forget to have you flywheel checked and refinished (or replaced) if needed

I inspect before ordering parts. Some folks pop in a new disk and call it done. Others buy just about every part close to the transmission and feel equally accomplished. A clutch kit, flywheel bolts and some gear oil make sense to me, assuming you havent changed the fluid recently. Assuming you dont need the car every day I would take it apart, inspect then order what's bad. Dave's comments above are good.



Cant go wrong with the kit if you have the time and $$.

Agree with both of the guys above... There's preventative maintenance, but that's a lot of extra stuff....

That list looks good. Ya that stuff seems nickle and dime but things like the throwout bearing and pilot bearings can be the difference between loud grumbly clutch and smooth quiet clutch.
Cable will leave you stranded if the hook ends break- 75$ is worth your time and frustration (and towing charges).
Not sure if the 911 requires this step, but cars I have done clutch jobs to benefited from a blanchard grind on the flywheel (Resurfacing) or at the very minimal some scotchbrite (green pad) grinding on the flywheel mating surface.

New parts = new mating surfaces = longer life. Just like doing the brakes.

Great list, TR. Goes w/o saying check for any leaks but, really, replace any seals you can get to while you're there.

I replaced the omega/helper spring on my car. It was a PITFA to get off the shaft. I doubt it needed it. The fork was well worn. I didn't have the clutch cable ends so I didn't do it. I would not replace the clutch cable without doing the pedal bushings. I'd make it 2 seperate projects.

Rick, take some pics of how the clutch cable, lever, spring are set BEFORE you remove. Not all that easy to get right and if you don't have a lift you are working on your back.

That's good advice. I've spend more time than I'd like to admit staring at that darn spring while on my back. It fits more ways than one, but it only works in 1 position.

I wouldn't reuse the bolts - ESPECIALLY the flywheel bolts - as old as they are.