![]() |
Overview: Boxster S clutch & flywheel
13 Attachment(s)
Here's the patient. 2000 Boxster S with 104K miles.
Attachment 22597 Remove axel nuts -- you need the half-shafts out to remove the tranny: Attachment 22598 Put the top in "service mode": Attachment 22599 Remove storage tray/speakers, carpeted sound pad, and engine cover: Attachment 22600 Raise car and begin working under the car -- at first it looks daunting with all of the exhaust parts and underbody bracing: Attachment 22601 But once that stuff is out of the way, access to the tranny is excellent: Attachment 22602 Here's another view, note the black cross brace that passes under the tranny bell housing. You can leave this in, but it is only 4 bolts (plus the crash tether bolt) and removing it gives even more room to work: Attachment 22603 Before removing the tranny, you have to support the engine. Here is my $10 solution -- a 4x4, an eye bolt and a short chain: Attachment 22604 Now is a good time to loosen the bell housing bolts 1/2 turn. Then support the tranny and take off the tranny mounts (from both chassis and tranny). Do not attempt to remove the center bolt on the mounts -- doing so will destroy the mount. Instead you take out the two small bolts on each mount to separate the entire mount from the car. Then remove the mounting brackets from tranny. Right-side mount and bracket: Attachment 22605 Left-side mount and bracket: Attachment 22606 Disconnect reverse switch (at rear of tranny), shift cables (use a large flathead screwdriver to pop them off), and bell housing bolts. Then the tranny just slides out with plenty of room to spare. Attachment 22607 Old pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel. Attachment 22608 New flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. While my flywheel was OK, I decided to replace it anyway to ensure many more years of no worry driving. Attachment 22609 Replace your throwout bearing, clean & lube the release pivot point, clean & lube splines on tranny input shaft, clean and lube the surface the throwout bearing slides on, then re-install tranny, half-shafts (don't forget to fully torque these after you have the car back on the ground), exhaust, underbody bracing, and go for a drive! In my case, the new clutch is super smooth and progressive. |
Wow, nice write-up. What's the book rate for the job?
|
Shudder (bad memories:() The manual trans looks much easier. Nice writeup. FWIW, You don't have to pull the axles. The manual just says to unbolt the CVs @ the trans.
|
Quote:
|
Nice job John.
Looks like lots of room in there once trans under brackets and shields are out of the way. Did you do a new pilot bearing as well? Boxsters have them? Going to replace clutch slave cylinder or master? Glad(e) you replaced the DMF. Nice work. :) |
What, no money shot showing the RMS and IMS flange?
|
Great write up - thanks!
Book rate = $1000+ in NoVA $800 in Winchester (Now you got me thinking about doing this myself...) Have the RMS or IMS bearing ever been changed? At 104k miles, that might have been good things to get access to. |
Quote:
Yup Boxsters have pilot bearings. The new flywheel came with a pilot bearing already installed. No issues with clutch hydraulics so I chose to leave them alone. I did bleed the system (no bubbles seen). Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Got it!!!
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:04 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.