Any mtn bikers?
 

I'm thinking about getting a mtn bike for trail riding. The last bike I owned was a Huffy about 12-15 years ago so I am way out of the loop. I googled mtn biking forums and WOW, there are a lot. I looked and saw where some of these things have disc brakes and even hydralic disc brakes on them. I was going to go by my local bikeshop today but they were closed for the weekend. I don't want to get in over my head.

So my question is where does one get started?

If it helps I'm 5'11 185-190 lbs, atheltic but not superfit, I'm in shape, circle is a shape. I run about 15-20 miles a week, just so I can drink beer, eat ice cream, and drink sweet tea. Just not sure where to start.

Thanks

What's compelling you to ride on trails? Are you talking about real trails/fire roads or bike path "trails"? I used to be a fairly hard-core mountain biker and used to ride three to four times a week. I started out way back in the late 1980's with an old girlfriend's Raleigh MTB bike, which renewed my interest in cycling. I soon bought a Specialized Hard Rock, basically a heavy as sh*t bike that got me on the trails and whetted my appetite even further. I sold that for a Specialized S-Works M2 (a whopping $1,800 back in '92), which was replaced under warranty at around 1996. I still have that bike, which is considered vintage, especially when I run into twenty-somethings on the trail with their one year old cycles, but I just don't care or ride enough to get a new one.

It's been a long time since I've cared about bike prices, but I think you can get a fairly good bike for about $1,000 or so, and have it equipped with a semi-decent gruppo (shifters, gears, bottom bracket, brakes, etc.) and maybe even have a full suspension. It's important to get a fairly light bike but don't get too caught up in the weight race. Miguel Indurain could ride a 60 lb Huffy and still trounce 99% of the population. A good bike shop will evaluate how serious you are and help put you into a bike that is affordable yet good enough for you to grow into. The shop will also make sure that the bike frame actually fits your height and build.

The used bike market has some incredible deals, but, if you have no idea what you're doing, you can make a big mistake by buying the wrong bike.

Also, unless you're spending big bucks, I'd recommend getting a hard-tail. Full suspension on less-expensive bikes just adds weight and flexibility (flexibility allows your pedal power to go into bending the frame instead of powering the bike).

Peter

Mark--I'm talking real trails, the rocks, the mud, the jumps the downhill, all that. Actually there are a couple reasons I am thinking about it. I had thought about it when my wife and I first got married (we were going to do it together) but we never got around to doing it. Lately I've been thinking of getting a fourwheeler to go trail riding on. We went out to dinner with another couple the other night and he asked if I wanted to do trail stuff why I didn't get a MTB. I thought about it and it would satisfy my trail riding/off road urges without us having another motorized vehicle in the driveway. Plus it would give me another exercise outlet and break from running. The guy the other night is a newb too, but he just went out and bought a $700 Trex. I'm guessing he got the frame/wheels/tires/and gears, but he mentioned that he had to get a seat and some other stuff so I don't know. But I thought surely I could get started for less than that. Heck I've been looking at used stuff, but there is just a ton of stuff out there.

Dr.K-I got your message and replied.

Ryan,

I'd see if you can find a club member who's really knowledgeable about bikes who can help you with a used one. Many of these bikes have been ridden two dozen times on real trails and can be bought for a song. You will definitely need some guidance from someone who knows what to look for and who can tell if the bike fits properly. You can adjust the bike with seat position and stem length but those adjustments have obvious limitations.

Good luck! Riding will get you into shape but is much easier on your body than running.

mtn biking can be a blast and nearly as addictive as this other hobby of ours. In the beginining you will break and prematurely wear out a lot of components and take a fair amount of spills.

As your technique improves you will learn to be easier on the gear and you will be back to wear/maintenance items. Sounds kinda familiar.

It a great way to get/stay in shape. I used to ride/race and logged well over 100Miles any given week.

Any decently priced new bike will be a good start as long as you buy mid-tier components (at a minimum 1 level up from consumer ie Shimano LX level would be perfect and last you a while). Don't go entry level or for the pro level... I successfully competed using 1 tier from pro gear since it cost me 1/2 as much as the pro level and performed almost as well.

I ride every weekend when the weather cooperates (its been raining too much currently.) The wife rides too. We own 5 mountain bikes;) I'd be making myself a new HT frame come spring. I LOVE it. I see it as autocrossing in the woods w/ trees instead of cones:)

You can get a good new HT (hardtail) for $500-1k (lots of sales on last years model.) A good FS (full suspension) is $2k min. Deals can be had on used. At nearly 6' I'd STRONGLY suggest trying a 29er (larger 29" wheels vs the old normal 26" diam wheels.) Im 6'2" and its a *NO*brainer - I'll never go back. A Gary Fisher dlr will probably have the largest selection, but everyone makes one or two 29ers now.

Fit is the #1 thing to consider. You'll enjoy a $300 beater that fits better than a $2k one that doesn't. Only way to find out is to ride a few. If you have 'average' leg and arm length then your in the 'L' sized frames.

Disc brakes: Hard to find anything w/o them anymore. Nice, but not necessary. Avid makes the only good inexpensive disc brakes. Their cable operated Avid BB5 or BB7 are the yardstick by which all other non-hydraulic brakes are judged by. The Avid Juicy 5's are the best (most reliable) inexpensive hydraulics.

PM me if you need any advice.

I have been biking for years and have considered $800 to be a good budget for a bike that will last several years. When everything is shot, replace. Back in the 90's this got you a hard tail with OK components. In the 2000 era, you could get an aluminum hard tail with cable disc brakes and OK components that were now better. A couple of years ago I found an aluminum hard tail with hydraulic disc brakes and mid range Shimano components for $800 so my budget does not change, but the bikes keep getting better. In my opinion, you want to find a hard tail with hydraulic disc brakes and good components. If the bike fits, is rugged, continues to shift well after many miles and mud, and has nice brakes, you will enjoy yourself. Once the bike stops shifting well, it gets a lot less fun. Either learn how to maintain the bike or buy where you can get it tuned up for free to continue enjoying riding. Finally, invest in padded underpants. Your "huff" will appreciate it.

It's nice to see that hardtails aren't seen as gas light/coal cart technology. I thought all of the manufacturers had figured out how to make a light, FS bike that could climb like a mountain goat with near zero efficiency loss. Maybe at the ultra high end? My Metal Matrix S-Works is not the lightest bike out there, but, boy, does it put power to the ground and climb.

Hit up craigslist. There's always a handfull of bikes on there. I scored a great deal on my giant nrs2 and love it. I ride 2-3 a weeks and got stranded yesterday after busting my chain on a stump.

I have a full suspension bike, but don't get a cheap full suspension. Like PK said, you'll be better off with a hard-tail on a lighter budget.

The forum of all mountain bike forums is: http://forums.mtbr.com/

And most importantly are there any good trails near you? If not, game over.