996 GT3 sway bar setting question
 

Can any of the 996 GT3 drivers here provide some input on what sway bar settings work for you at the track?

I just installed a full GT3 suspension, coilovers, shocks, sway bars, etc.

Just picked it up from the alignment shop and the onramp test shows a bit more push/understeer than I like. Getting ready to start backing off the front sway bar but wanted to get some input from you guys with experience.

Car has 2.7 negative camber up front, 0 toe. 2.5 negative camber in back, 4mm total toe in.

Sway bars are set at 1 hole from Hard up front, 2 holes from Hard in back.

I run MPSC 235 on 18x8 up front and 295 on 18x10 in back.

Thanks in advance

Since there don't seem to be any GT3 drivers here or they don't know their what their sway bar settings are :). Just kidding. For future reference, what seemed to work out initially was to make the rear bar stiffer and leave the front bar alone. Will play with this more at the track on July 14th to dial it in better.

-P

Only an aspiring GT3 drover here, but according to Carroll Smith's book sway bars are one of the few things in tuning that can be set independently to other variables, and carry little penalty. (even in terms of losing suspension "independence") So feel free to play with the settings to get the right oversteer/understeer balance. (in-between realignments and spring change :p)

My car's adjustable sway bars are set: stiffest in rear and loosest in front. The toe is also slightly out in the front. I love the way my car feels; it turns when I want it to...

My car is set full hard front, and one from hardest on the back.

Agree and understand the principles. Was just looking to compare notes to see what folks with 996 GT3s are running. And to start with a known good config and adjust to my liking from there.

Depending on what the car tells me at the track I am expecting to loosen the front bar a little more and if needed stiffen the rear. Will let the car tell me what is needed. :)

Rob,

Good input, how is the car balanced? I am at now at 1 from Hard up front and 1 from Hard in the rear.

Paul,
Personally I would start with settings that add the least stiffnes to the car and stiffen them from there. If you have to go full hard, you probably have the wrong springs, since they are there to fine tune your suspension, not to compensate for mismatched springs. I suggest starting with near the least stiff setting both front and rear. If the car pushes, stiffen the rear; conversely, if the car is loose (oversteers) stiffen the front.

you could try it out on gran turismo... it works remarkably well. no joke.

The car is very compliant with those settings. Also, I have a compromised (more street) alignment based on the Roland Kussmaul specs (see attached).

Attachment 6146