![]() |
garage floor repair
So, we're building a new home and are set to move in on Friday. They poured this incredibly awesome concrete garage floor, smooth as glass and just, well, near perfection. I was so excited. Until a few days ago.
Some time in the building process it's pretty clear that someone was doing some framing/trim work and using a nail gun ON THE GARAGE FLOOR :bang: So, I discovered about 30+ craters in the floor. The builder has failed to officially respond to my concern, only the second-in-charge foreman gave me any inclination of repair. He said "I could fill it in with some caulk and smooth it over." :shock: I said I thought the only real fix was jackhammering the floor and pouring a new one. My concerns being rolling around my floor jack, big heavy toolboxes, installing a 4 postlift, using jackstands, etc. So, one alternative I'd like to hear some opinion on (by engineers or construction folks or anyone that knows more about this subject, or maybe even a good lawyer?) is will an epoxy fill then an epoxy floor paint hold up to jackstands, floor jacks and other high pressure loads? |
caulk definitely won't work.
can you post a pic of a typical flaw? if it's real small you might just patch it with some concrete mix from a bag, but if it's larger you may want to keyhole it out with a hammer and chisel before you patch. Not sure how well an epoxy patch works, I'll leave that to someone who's actually done it to respond. nate |
How big are the chips Vic? If small, I'd just apply a dab of patch mix into each. If you're going to epoxy paint over it it anyway you'll never know.
Look at it this way: Its a garage floor. You work on cars AND you have kids. Its going to get beat up:) I can't remember how many expansion joints were in it last time I was over. You'll probably develop a crack or two anyway. |
The epoxy floor system I plan to use on my garage is from General Polymers. The 1st step is blast tracking the floor to remove that nice glass finish and create a rough profile for the system to grab. Next is a trowel applied elastomeric coat. Unless your divits are huge, this step would fill voids and expansion cracks.
Be sure to WAIT some time before coaing your floor. It needs to cure for several months. You also need to be concerned with "outgassing" which can cause delamination of the coatings. I recommend contacting your local Sherwin Williams store and request that a General Polymers rep look at your floor. Tell 'em you want the aircraft hangar epoxy floor system. |
Biggest chip is about silver dollar diameter, 3mm deep. The offer from the foreman was to fill with epoxy, but you guys think filling w/ concrete patch is better?
|
Don't go to closing until the builder fixes it.
|
Quote:
|
Go to the garage store and look at tiles. Tell the builder he either digs up and repours the floor or covers it with the tile you select. Stand by your guns. What if it was your living room or entry way hardwood floor. Would you accept that? Otherwise set aside an amount to have it tiled yourself after closing.
ARF |
Last Ditch - Epoxy Filler
If you can't get the builder to own up, I would go with the recommendations to apply an epoxy filler/leveler (available at Lowes/HD).
I was preparing a concrete basement floor to put down some Pergo and had to fill in a few low spots (didn't want the flooring to bounce). I put it on a bit thick, thinking it might shrink some. Tried to take it back down with a heavy duty angle grinder with a concrete wheel. Let me tell you, it adheres VERY well, and is tougher than nails. A good option if you have to do it yourself. Gordo |
Tuesday 1pm I'll be getting an answer........... Thanks fo the info Gordo, that's exactly what I was wondering.
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:54 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.