Well said, sir.

happy to offer beer

:)

I agree on doing the pads at home. Then bed them in on way to track. It's nice to know you can count on getting help at the track if needed. Seem to recall folk even pulling engines at a DE when needed. But IMO it's better to be prepared so as to limit everyone's down time. Plenty if vids on interwebs to review before you get started.

Not sure what pads he's running, but bedding on the street may not be an option...e.g., PFC calls for 100+ mph as the last step in bedding...Though that didn't stop me from trying!

Likewise, bedding brakes when your car is full of track stuff as you drive en route to the track could also be troublesome...then again, most of the new-car drovers tend not to bring as much crap as we 944 drovers.

Source? I haven't heard that before.

http://www.coordsport.com/blog/2010/...-in-procedure/

That link was found here: OG's Blog.


That said, I just stumbled across this page on the PFC website, which does not give mph requirements.


Edit: I'll admit I've not seen 100+mph given as a requirement very often, but it's worth noting that each company's pad is different, and how that car manages heat is different as well. While not a mustang, my car is relatively heavy for the size of brakes it has so when bedding I tend to err on the side of caution. I wouldn't care as much on, say, a Miata.

Not PFC, but here is Pagid's website: http://www.pagidracing.com/index.php?id=75

Pagids are more finikie (sp) for bedding in than any other pads I have used. At SP, I try to a brake from 90-100 mph by turn 1 and then do another by turn 2, and then just go. It is hard to bed in at the track and not ideal to do on the roads.

I do not remember that PFC-97 are as sensitive to bedding.

I resurface pads by grinding off the surface after picking out just the right texture concrete curb. 3 or 4 one foot long strokes will cut a fresh surface with about the same texture as they come with in the box. If going back in the same location against the same rotor I don't scuff them. new rotor or new location they get scuffed up.

YMMV, don't try this at home.

From PFC... I have found them to be much easier/quicker to bed in than Pagids .

Pad and Disc Bedding

Please follow the undernoted instructions for both PFC brake pads and discs. For more information, please don't hesitate to contact your nearest Performance Friction sales representative or technician ... or you could Ask Peter!

Bedding New Performance Friction Brake Discs

Ensure that the brake discs are clean and free of grease or other contaminants.

Once the discs and pads are installed, perform the following procedure with brake cooling ducts fully open and functional - no tape! Best results are achieved using new Performance Friction brake pads. It is not necessary to bed in new PFC discs with used PFC pads.
1.On the first lap, perform several snubs with progressively higher pedal pressure and braking force and from higher speeds. You will feel the effectiveness of the brakes increase with each successive snub. This should take six to ten brake snubs per lap and is typically completed in one or two laps. As soon as the brakes become firm and responsive the car can be driven normally and at increased speeds.
2.Running the car at speed for one or two more laps with allow the disc to achieve the desired core temperature. If three-colour rotor paints are used, the green paint should be fully oxidized and the orange paint beginning to oxidize to white. A transfer layer of pad material will deposit on the disc; this is the slate gray colouration on the disc friction surface. This is a good indication that the disc and pads have been bedded properly.

NOTE: When using discs from manufacturers other than Performance Friction it will be necessary to allow the discs to cool to ambient temperature to achieve satisfactory disc life and performance. Performance Friction discs do not need this cool down period, due to extensive heat-treating processes at the time of manufacture.

Bedding New Performance Friction Brake Pads

Motorsport

If the discs were previously being used with Performance Friction pads, then the bedding procedure will be achieved quickly with new PFC pads. If the discs were previously bedded using a different manufacturer's pads then the process will take slightly longer. Again, with brake cooling ducts open and fully functional, perform the following procedures.
1.On the first lap, perform several snubs with progressively higher pedal pressure and braking force and from higher speeds. You will feel the effectiveness of the brakes increase with each successive brake application. This should take 6 to 10 snubs per lap and is usually completed in one or two laps. If non-PFC friction materials were previously run on the discs then this procedure could take as many as three to five laps. This is because the non-PFC friction material transfer layer must first be cleaned from the disc and then a fresh layer must be imparted to the disc.
2.Running additional laps is the best way to accomplish the new transfer layer and, due to the higher surface temperatures, will assure a complete removal of the old friction materials from the disc. Braking effectiveness should be excellent at this point and the car can be driven normally.

NOTE: Sanding/machine grinding the discs will not decrease the bedding time. Whenever new Performance Friction pads are installed, the pads require very little cool down time. Usually the time spent taking tyre temperatures and a debriefing with the driver is sufficient.