I don't know, it sounds like "Old fart PCA tech chair a$$Ho!!" voodoo poo poo to me...

I do like the replace the cap rather than stick a bolt in the newly made hole thing. I am going to get some caps the next time I am in a parts store.

Hey you guys speak the same language :lol: . I guess all that baby talk catches up to you after a while.

I was waiting for / expecting a much better comeback from you.
Monkey @$$!

Try again I know you can voodoo better!

Actually, I was hoping that I didn't have to drill and tap the torsion plate. I still kick myself, since last weekend, for drilling the plate and tapped out the t-bars. Last night, I tried to removed the T-bars from the SC and I was able to remove the T-bars that was stuck in the torsion plate without drilling the torsion plate. I used a pair of self locking grip plier, about 1/2" away from the inner bushing on the t-bar, as a fulcrum point to pry out the torsion plate with a long handled pry bar. It took less than a minute to get it out. I am going to hit the other side tonight with the same method, maybe I'll get lucky again. Andy

Yeah, technically Andy that is how they are supposed to come out. I just pulled the spring plates off the t-bars by hand on my 911, there was no need for tools.
It was easy this time around because you did it to a SC, not an early car with rusted t-bars. Just weld up the hole you drilled, after all it's not that big.

Andy, that's what I did with the big wooden woodworking clamps.
Carefull not to scratch the paint.
Are you getting new bars?
You'll have to go thru this a few times when you index the bars to set your rear ride height. I used a lot of grease and the suction is what made them difficult to get off.
Great job on the first, good luck on the next!

Bill,
WW clamps sounds even better!!!. This project is slowly, slipping down that slope. At first, I though that I can stay with SC's t-bars and just change out the bushings. Now, all in the name of "while I am in there", I am looking at 21/28 t-bars, new ball joints, turbo tie rods, new bushings all around, 22mm sways, new bearings, new rotors, new clutch package, external oil cooler, and i have a feeling that I won't stop there . :lol: I am looking for used 21/28 t-bars and 22mm sways, let me know if you got any leads?. Thanks. Andy

That's about what I did.
22 on front 28 rear
I have a turbo (non-adjustable) sway on the front that I picked up at Hershey Weltmeister 22 on back. (there was a used one here a few days ago.)
I'm not sure you mentioned shocks.
I did use the Bilstien HD on Front and Koni adjustable on rear.

I'm very happy with the setup and don't think it's harsh at all on the street.
Matt finished the alignment on Tuesday. I went for a backroads drive last night and am all smiles :D :D :D :D with the way it drives.
When I bought this POS 3 years ago I had no Idea how it was supposed to feel. I think now I'm finally getting to get the picture.

I hope your project goes quicker than mine.

BTW, are you backdating the heat? If so, put me down for the old SC parts you don't need. I need a heater fan and the shroud piece on the left side of the engine where the air comes off the engine fan and goes to the heater Via the plastic accordian hose. My piece has a hole worn thru by the old sheilded spark plug wires.

(Got pretty cold last night and I need the furnace back)
Any chance you'll be home this afternoon or tomarrow afternoon?

Hi Bill,
I am gonna put a set of headers on my 3.0 for now and then SSI later. So, you can have what you need from my heating system. I'll be home tomorrow afternoon. Please let me know if you are going to stop by?, I'll dig out the shtufffs tonight. Andy.

I'll definately plan to come by in the afternoon!
Hope things are slow here. I got your address and number in mY mailbox.
When will you be getting home.
I'll call if and when I'm on the way!