I always feel so guilt looking at Mihnea's car. Inside and out it's always so clean! Nice work as always.

That's freakin' awesome! You work much faster than I do! LOL

P.S. Are those really Ferrari sweat pants? :shock:

I haven't cleaned up the car yet after last season. That's still to come.

Especially when time lapsed.

Yes, yes. Everybody picks on me for that. :oops: They were a gift...

Awesome work, noticed the pants too.

You need an impact gun!

I sure do. I think I am graduating from "oh, do I have a tool for this job?" to "do I have the best tool for this job?". The answer to the former is almost always yes. The answer to the latter is almost always no.

I recommend a nice 3/8" gun. Can basically do everything except the stuff that you probably want to use a breaker bar for. As a casual hobbyist mechanic I got a dewalt a few seasons back... http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF883M.../dp/B00BWFIKZO saves tons of time. I take it to the track and use it to take off wheel nuts too. Almost painful watching you loosen all those little bolts by hand :)

I will actually have a Bosch for sale shortly - will list it this week

Just a quick update. I got some more parts in the mail:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psltltf2xe.jpg

And I separated the front rotors from the hats. Then, I did my best to spruce up the hats a bit. The front hats are off to GiroDisc for re-ringing.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbwqx73mi.jpg

And separated. IMPORTANT NOTE: I found that some of the screws that are supposed to hold the hat and rotor together were loose. I found that some (2 or 3) had sheared off! I found that many of the captive nuts were deformed and starting to crack or already cracked. This is a major safety issue! I am also ordering a new hardware set for the rear rotors to replace the old hardware even though I am not replacing the rotors. I had no idea that this hardware needs to be checked and replaced. This will be added to my track inspection checklist. PCA track safety inspectors - this should probably be checked on cars with aftermarket floating rotors!

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr01csy33.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psnxhwkzua.jpg

In the process of cleaning.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psnvhomxtb.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbwdvseob.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...psxqi3vjwc.jpg

Suspension arm thoughts
 

Mihnea,

I've been exploring different approaches to replacing the "control arms" on my car after picking up on Tom's comment about changing them every 3 years. Also my wife says forget about getting a GT4.

#1 The ultimate setup IMHO is the ERP pro series which after selling off the RSS LCAs would cost about $2k and the most work to install end would endlessly confuse my alignment dude. He is OK with the RSS LCAs & bump steer toe links.

#2 The next option would be the Tarret tension/compression struts that would cost about $1.3K and be fairly easy to install after setting the lengths to match the stock pieces.

#3 The next option would be installing the stock arms that cost about $1.1K and again be fairly easy to install.

#3A The out of the box solution that I don't know how to implement would be to get spherical joints to fit in the stock arms since we both have hydraulic presses....has any one tried this ? http://cad.aurorabearing.com/viewite...led-ptfe-lined

Scary about finding the hat bolts loose. The bolts are usually drilled for safety wire. I'll be checking mine too, they aren't safety wired yet.

Rob

Another option: Install new polyurethane bushings on your existing control arms. Here's a company that sells them.

http://powerflexusa.com/

I am seriously considering these in the black version all around and possibly the front kit which allows for camber adjusting with the inner bushing.