uhg. I don't like circlips where I can see what I am doing. That procedure sounds scary. :eek:

Well, like Martin said, you can use a bore scope to double check your work. The bad news is that if it somehow pops off you have to open up the engine again to retrieve it. So, in conclusion, it's only scary if you value your time at all.

The front to back positioning of the crank is setup to be correct with the clutch and pressure plate engaged. As a result you don't tend to see much wear on the end play shims, or thrust washers as Porsche calls them, (the face bearings in front of the second saddle) shown as worn here. So, wear there generally indicates extraordinary time spent with the clutch semi-engaged (or a track car) assuming the end play was set correctly during the build. You can actually swap the two shims since only one ever gets wear - but I would replace both :)

Makes sense. The flywheel side shim showed wear per my pic, while the pulley side shim was almost perfect. I can see what you mean about swapping them. I've got two on my list though ;)

I also thought that they limit/set the crankshaft float. Not correct?

They do partially. Sometimes you have to remove a little material if the end play is too tight.

Looks lined up way back in there....
Attachment 44108

Lets just reach in and pop the circlip on! Easy-peasy!
Attachment 44109

Clutch riding comment
 

Mihnea,

Glad you enjoyed my P-9 projects.

One tip I saw recently for mating the engine and trans axle was to use a pair of Mercedes wheel hangers that have M 12 X 1.5 threads like our trans axle bolts.

Have you decided what to do with your pistons?

What engine tool set are you using? Does your brother have a bore scope like a Milwaukee? I got one to look at my cylinder wall(s).

Ok enough with the questions.

Again good luck with your project.

Rob

My primary takeaway from this is that if our Boxster engine splodes sometime in the future, I'm calling you blokes.

Rob - clever idea on using the wheel hangers. Otherwise it is a little tricky to get the transmission aligned properly with the engine, especially if working alone. The key is to get the angle between the engine and transmission right.

My pistons are staying. I will do my best to clean some carbon off them. Not sure about replacing the rings, but probably not. My car wasn't burning any oil prior to this.

I am using the BAUM tool set. We have a bore scope that needs to connect to a computer via USB. It doesn't have its own screen.

What are the potential new problems replacing the rings? I can't imagine having the engine that far apart and not replacing a wear component. But I'm no expert on this (and mighty impressed with this thread, Mihnea!).